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Geneva, November 7, 2019

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THE NEW HAUTE HORLOGERIE

PART II

They�re called Genus, Petermann B�dat, Cyrus, Sylvain Pinaud, Krayon, Alchemists, Trilobe, David Candaux, Tournemire, Ming� These names, still unknown to the public at large, are those of established master watchmakers or young horology geeks. Their ambitions are diverse, as are the paths they have chosen, but all of them, each in their own way, are trying to add their stone to the edifice and inscribe their name on the Haute Horlogerie map. A brief reconnaissance tour.

MING: THE CREATIVE BREATH OF KUALA LUMPUR

ALCHEMISTS: THE ALCHEMY OF THE CUPRUM 479

TRILOBE: A CHANGE OF REFERENCE

DE TOURNEMIRE: A HEART OF STONE

SYLVAIN PINAUD AND HIS "CHRONOGRAPHE MONOPOUSSOIR ARTISANAL"

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Geneva, November 7, 2019

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WATCH THE 2019 GPHG LIVE

DIRECTLY FROM GENEVA

It�s time for the GPHG 2019, the most important awards in watchmaking. The ceremony is taking place in Geneva today at 6:30 pm CET at the Th��tre du L�man, and you are invited to join us LIVE!

Established in 2001 to showcase Swiss watchmaking and its values all around the world, the contest is open to any brand and several hundred watches participate every year in the competition. GPHG prize-giving ceremony 2019 is taking place today, at 6:30 pm CET in Geneva.

Subscribe to Europa Star to access high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927!

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Geneva, November 8, 2019

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AND THE WINNERS ARE...

GPHG 2019 RESULTS

Photo � Miguel Bueno

Watchmaking excellence was honoured this Thursday November 7^th in Geneva at the 19^th GPHG prize-giving ceremony, brilliantly hosted by actor Edouard Baer.

The GPHG's independent jury awarded 19 prizes and attributed the �Aiguille d�Or� Grand Prix to Audemars Piguet for the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watch.

Click on each image to learn more about the winning watch and listen to the prize-giving speech.

GRAND PRIX DE L�AIGUILLE D�OR

Fran�ois-Henry Bennahmias

CEO of Audemars Piguet, winner of the �Aiguille d�Or� Grand Prix

LADIES' WATCH PRIZE

Nicolas Beau

Global Head of Watches and Fine Jewelry Business Development at Chanel, winner of the Ladies� Watch Prize 2019

LADIES' COMPLICATION WATCH PRIZE

Maximilian B�sser

Owner & Creative Director of MB&F, winner of the Ladies� Complication Watch Prize 2019

MEN'S WATCH PRIZE

Kari Voutilainen

Owner and watchmaker, winner of the Men's Watch Prize 2019

MEN'S COMPLICATION WATCH PRIZE

Fran�ois-Henry Bennahmias

CEO of Audemars Piguet, winner of the Men's Complication Watch Prize

� Calendar and Astronomy Watch Prize: Herm�s, Arceau L'heure de la lune
� Mechanical Exception Watch Prize: Genus, GNS1.2
� Chronograph Watch Prize: Bvlgari, Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT Automatic
� Innovation Prize: Vacheron Constantin, Traditionnelle Twin Beat perpetual calendar
� Iconic Watch Prize: Audemars Piguet, Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra-thin
� Chronometry Watch Prize: Chronom�trie Ferdinand Berthoud, Carburised steel regulator
� Diver�s Watch Prize: Seiko, Prospex LX line diver's
� Jewellery Watch Prize: Bvlgari, Serpenti Misteriosi Romani
� Artistic Crafts Watch Prize: Voutilainen, Starry Night Vine
� �Petite Aiguille� Prize: Kudoke, Kudoke 2
� Challenge Watch Prize: Tudor, Black Bay P01
� Audacity Prize: Urwerk, AMC
� �Horological Revelation� Prize: Ming, 17.06 Copper
� Special Jury Prize: Luc Pettavino, Founder and Organiser of Only Watch

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Geneva, November 12, 2019

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PARTICIPATE IN OUR ANNUAL SURVEY

WE APPRECIATE YOUR FEEDBACK

Our editorial mission is to provide you with the best independent content on the world of watches. As we value your feedback to improve our publications, we invite you to take a few minutes for our annual survey.
Thanks a lot!

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Geneva, Novembre 19, 2019

EXCLUSIVE CHINA REPORT

What explains the country�s �watch fever� over the last two decades?Discover Serge Maillard's 360� watch report on the watch industry in China. From the dawn of Chinese civilisation to the emergence of Chinese millennials, this is a tale about the most important place for watches in the world, outside of Switzerland.

EXCLUSIVE CHINA REPORT

THE CHINESE WATCH MARKET IN 3 KEY CONCEPTS

A cornucopia of contemporary consumption: this is how we could aptly describe the Chinese market, which today combines hyper-consumption with oversupply of goods. It is also a digital laboratory, where individualistic buying behaviour now dominates.

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THE CHINESE WATCH MARKET SEEN BY KEY PLAYERS

In this article, we selected a number of quotes from various voices on the Chinese watch market, that helps to understand the main trends and upheavals in the country. From Walter von K�nel, CEO of Longines, to Chinese �key opinion leaders�, here is our selection.

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ALIBABA: A GAME-CHANGING ALLIANCE WITH RICHEMONT

Tmall is hoping its strategic cooperation with Yoox-Net-APorter will attract distribution and increase sales of watches on its dedicated luxury platform. We interviewed Lili Chen, general manager of Tmall Luxury Pavilion.

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�LOGISTICS IS THE �KILLER APP� OF THE CHINESE E-COMMERCE GIANTS�
INTERVIEW WITH DIGITAL LUXURY GROUP, CHINA

WeChat or Weibo, Tmall or JD: which platform is most likely to align with the strategies of Swiss watch brands? Geneva-based Digital Luxury Group (DLG) was a pioneer in offering luxury brand services in China. We met with Managing Director China, Pablo Mauron, to discuss this digital world that stokes so many fantasies.

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WHO GAVE THE WATCH VIRUS TO THE CHINESE?

How did the watch achieve such an exalted status in the country? Answering this question also raises some questions about the future of this strong symbol in Chinese culture. On this fantastic journey, we meet everyone from Jesuit missionaries to Val-de-Travers artisans.

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WATCH GALLERY

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Geneva, Novembre 27, 2019

THE WATCHMAKING INCUBATOR

Kickstarter and other crowdfunding sites have provided unexpected new opportunities for watchmaking launches often on the basis of just a couple of simple 3D software programmes and a good sense of communication. As for ideas, there is no lack of those, as proven by the hundreds of brands, or trial brands, that are hatched every year. To find out the exact status of subscriptions to this watchmaking exchange, open 24x7, the best plan is to look directly at the sites devoted to the uberisation of horology.

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INTERVIEW WITH REXHEP REXHEPI, FOUNDER OF AKRIVIA

He is 32 years old, has already won a GPHG award, sells his entire, small output to collectors and the keenest watch lovers, has fingers of gold and a good head on his shoulders, and shows no sign of slowing down.

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NEW STYLES FOR WATCHES

Timepieces by new, high-quality independents often have the merit of opening up new paths in form and engineering. Here is a selection of such initiatives by designers, stylists, micro-mechanics specialists, collectors or simple fans of horology, chosen on a purely subjective basis by Europa Star from the plethora of new designs on offer.

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TRILOBE: A CHANGE OF REFERENCE

"Love to be different�, �overturn concepts�, �take time�� These are all precepts � or pieces of advice � that could well be applied to Trilobe�s approach to watchmaking. The Trilobe watch is proof of this. It tells the time in an unmistakeably different way.

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WATCH HIGHLIGHTS OF THE WEEK

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Geneva, December 5, 2019

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IN THIS ISSUE
THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING &
SILICON VALLEY REPORT - AVAILABLE NOW

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THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING...

Watchmaking has now fully entered the age of digital complexity. Unlike the well-oiled networks of the past, the jungle we�re dealing with today is more or less impenetrable to everyone. The watch as an object has also been fundamentally transformed. Never before has the Swiss mechanical watch been so desired, so popular and, for some iconic models, so unobtainable. But for those actors that fall into the gap, and that are not among the happy few, stuck somewhere between the Apple Watch and the �Pepsi�, this fascinating road is strewn with obstacles and dangers.

Entering 2020, major stakeholders of the watch industry share their vision on the most relevant questions about the future of watchmaking:

� ENTRY-LEVEL
� POLARISATION
� DISTRIBUTION
� PRE-OWNED
� OPPORTUNITIES
� HIGH-END

REPORT: A WEEK IN THE BAY AREA

Digital technology is disrupting the world of watches, and the tools of disruption are being created chiefly in the Bay Area. The Swiss watch industry, although revered by local entrepreneurs, nevertheless seems very remote from the tech industry. The time would seem right to finally establish a local presence to monitor the innovations taking place in Silicon Valley, especially as they are increasingly targeting the huge home market.
We spent a week there to meet some of the key players.

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- Fratello Watches

Subscribe to Europa Star to access high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927!

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Geneva, December 12, 2019

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NEW: ALL EUROPA STAR EDITIONS SINCE 1950

� Europa Star Archives, 1950s

We have some good news to share with you: we have finished digitising 40,000 additional pages, covering the 1950s. You can now access over 100,000 pages of Europa Star online. Login if you're already subscribed or get a subscription now to check the stylish horological designs of the 1950s.

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The database of Europa Star now covers more than 70 years of history of the watch industry, and it will keep growing thanks to your precious support. We hope you will discover some fascinating timepieces among our pages and find new inspiration there.

As we continue to expand the Europa Star Club with new content, do not hesitate to share this treasure of data with your friends and colleagues, in the watch industry and beyond. Why not offer a subscription as a Christmas present (if you happen to have watch enthusiasts in your close circle and among loved ones)?

ABOUT EUROPA STAR

Subscribe to Europa Star and get your access to a high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927!

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Follow our vintage Instagram account @Watch_Heritage to discover ads and articles from Europa Star�s digital archive. More than 100,000 pages of watchmaking history are available in one click with our Club.

More information >

CONTACT US
EUROPA STAR HBM
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Geneva, December 18, 2019

HUBLOT, MATERIAL MATTERS

English � Fran�ais

Contrary to preconceived ideas, behind the success of Hublot is not only the vocal and charismatic Jean-Claude Biver but a veritable double act, inseparable for more than 20 years, the second prime mover being Ricardo Guadalupe. One of the frontmen of the brand since 2012, when he was made CEO, he is pursuing the �fusion� venture with panache. We met him.

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SHINOLA, THE FACTORY OF AMERICANA

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

The Detroit firm with Texan roots has taken ownership of the theme of resilience, in a city that has endured more than its share of problems. With the help of world-class design and storytelling, the brand has succeeded in spreading throughout the country in just a few years. Today, its operations extend far beyond watchmaking, stretching from bicycles to real estate. We paid a visit.

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DELMA ANNOUNCES A SWISS NATURE PHOTO CONTEST

English � Fran�ais

The Lengnau-based brand has come up with an original concept for the launch of its new Shell Star Bronze model: a photo competition on the theme of water and the elements. The objective is to highlight the beauty of Swiss lakes and rivers, particularly the unsuspected wealth of nature below the surface, but also to spotlight threats such as plastic pollution.

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HAMILTON: �WE�RE MAKING THE MOST OF THE VINTAGE TREND�

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

While smartwatches are visible absolutely everywhere in the United States, Hamilton, that most American of Swiss watchmakers, is experiencing a strong resurgence of popularity in the country, especially among younger generations. The brand is reaping the benefits of a long-term strategy from which it has not deviated, based on affordable, vintage-inspired mechanical watchmaking and pioneering e-commerce, while making the most of the industrial support of the Swatch Group.

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A KEY HOROLOGICAL TOOL: �THE WATCH PAGES�

English � Espa�ol

When it comes to watches, there�s no end of data to keep track of, from the prices of the latest releases to the year a given brand was founded, or the most iconic timepieces. The Watch Pages is a new website that provides a key service to watch professionals and enthusiasts alike: it structures all this information and organises it, making it easy for everyone to enjoy.

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WATCH HIGHLIGHTS OF THE WEEK

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Geneva, December 19, 2019

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SEASON'S GREETINGS 2020 FROM EUROPA STAR

ON BEHALF OF THE ENTIRE EUROPA STAR TEAM, WE WOULD LIKE TO WISH YOU ALL THE BEST FOR THE NEW YEAR

???????? Just a few days left to wrap up Christmas, and still no gift for your watch aficionado friend? Why not offer a Europa Star Club subscription? It grants online access to over 70 years of watches and watch industry news, all in one place. You can be sure your present will be both original and useful.

EUROPA STAR CLUB SUBSCRIPTION

ABOUT EUROPA STAR

Subscribe to Europa Star to access high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927!

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Follow our vintage Instagram account @Watch_Heritage to discover ads and articles from Europa Star�s digital archive. More than 100,000 pages of watchmaking history are available in one click with our Club.

More information >

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Europa Star newsletter sponsored by Inhorgenta Munich / Communiqu�

Geneva, January 20, 2020

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STRONG DEVELOPMENT OF THE WATCH SECTOR AT INHORGENTA MUNICH

International and diverse: That's how the exhibitor list of Inhorgenta Munich looks about a month before the beginning of the trade fair. Above all, the trade fair is constantly growing in the watch area. Included in the notable newcomers are Erwin Sattler, Festina, Fortis and Jacques Lemans. Also traveling to the trade fair will be, for example, Citizen, Garmin, Maurice Lacroix and Seiko. Stefanie M�ndlein, Exhibition Director at Inhorgenta Munich, provides the interim results: �With the new design of Hall A1 and the Watch Boutique, last year we were the gold standard, which was also the feedback of many customers after the trade fair. Such responses are very pleasing. But it is even better when this is reflected in the numbers. That is a huge motivation for us.�

INHORGENTA EXHIBITORS 2020

Switzerland is a special partner for Inhorgenta Munich 2020, which pushes watches further into the foreground. The partner country will present the diverse offerings in Salon Suisse in the watch hall. The renowned Mus�e international d�horlogerie will be showcasing the art of watchmaking from the 18th century right through to the present day. In the exhibition entitled �My Watch,� Swiss personalities reveal the watch they personally wear and tell the story behind it. The Salon Suisse bar will present Swiss specialties, thus providing an ideal setting for networking.

Furthermore, Inhorgenta Munich is the information platform for the entire industry. The Watch Talks provide the opportunity to discuss current topics. Insiders and experts give inspiration and foster discussion through their presentations. And among other topics, there will be different networking platforms for watchmakers.

The watch focus will also be strengthened through the new category �Public Choice � Best Watch� at the Inhorgenta Award. An expert jury will select the winner for the second watch category �Watch of the Year.� The trophy counts as a recognized award inside of the branch and will be awarded on February 16, 2020.

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Geneva, February 6, 2020

THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING (II)

In this special series, we meet a number of industry figures to talk about possible ways (opportunities as much as pitfalls) for watchmaking in 2020 and beyond.

�KUDETA LAB�: A NEW WATCH INCUBATOR

English � Espa�ol � Fran�ais

Private label company Montrichard continues to amass an impressive number of requests for new watch ventures. The solution they have come up with to manage this growing demand is to launch a �watch incubator� that will introduce these new players to the world, bypassing the traditional intermediaries.

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MAX B�SSER ON THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING
English � Espa�ol

In our latest report about the transformation of the watch world, we selected six major issues which are having a profound impact on the industry�s present and also on its future and discussed them with about forty stakeholders of the industry. Here is the take of Max B�sser, CEO of MB&F.

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SWATCH: NEW HEADQUARTERS AND A LOT OF QUESTIONS

English � Fran�ais

The magnificent �serpent� designed by Japanese architect Shigeru Ban for Swatch took more than eight years to rise out of the ground and unfurl its coils in the town of Biel/Bienne. But this uncoiling comes at a time when sales of the watch that in its day �saved Swiss watchmaking� are taking a serious nose-dive. Will it help them level out?

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COLLECTIVE: THE SILICON VALLEY'S WATCH CLUB

English � Espa�ol

The new collectors� club came to global attention when Zenith announced the launch of a �Collective� edition of its Chronomaster El Primero last October. The first Silicon Valley-based organised circle of watch enthusiasts is poised to grow. We met its co-founder Gabe Reilly.

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�TODAY, WE ADMIRE THE DISRUPTION OF THE PAST�

English � Espa�ol

Swiss-born star designer Yves Behar has a long list of clients, ranging from Nike to L�Oreal, Louis Vuitton to Prada, Samsung to Herman Miller. Now based in San Francisco, he has also created timepieces for Movado and Issey Miyake. We met this Silicon Valley insider to discuss the relationship between the high-tech world and the watch world.

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ABOUT EUROPA STAR

Subscribe to Europa Star to access high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927!

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Discover ads and articles from Europa Star�s digital archive. More than 100,000 pages of watchmaking history are available in one click with our Club.

More information >

CONTACT US
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25 route des Acacias, 1227 Geneva
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Geneva, January 23, 2020

FIVE CURATED REPORTS OF 2019

IN THE LABYRINTH OF COUNTERFEIT WATCHES

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

Being embedded with the main company in charge of tracking counterfeits in China and living �from the inside� a complex police operation in Guanghzou.

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WATCHES IN THE SILICON VALLEY
English � Espa�ol

Meeting key players in the Silicon Valley to report how the future they are crafting �there� is going to impact the watch industry �here�.

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JAPAN WATCH REPORT

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

Seeing first-hand the advancement of Japanese watch manufacturing at the fastest movement factory in the world in Nagano province.

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REPORT ON UNREST IN HONG KONG

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

Reporting from Hong Kong at the height of the massive political demonstrations on the changing watch scene between the island and the mainland.

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AMERICAN WATCH REPORT

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

Living the American Dream and writing a 360� report on the American watch industry, from Pennsylvania-based RGM to Detroit-based Shinola, from Tourneau�s takeover by Bucherer to the expansion of Watches of Switzerland.

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Geneva, January 30, 2020

IMAGINING THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING

In this special series of interviews, we meet a number of industry figures to talk about possible ways (opportunities as much as pitfalls) for watchmaking in 2020 and beyond. Here is a first selection.

�WE�RE IN TALKS WITH HEALTH INSURANCE COMPANIES�

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

Smartwatches? They account for 12% of turnover at Fr�d�rique Constant and 35% at Alpina. With the creation of MMT, Peter Stas is one step ahead in the smartwatch race. And the race isn�t over yet. But that hasn�t stopped them from also offering a perpetual calendar at an astonishingly low price. The horological splits? No, convergence. We met him.

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�TOMORROW WILL BE EVEN MORE POLARISED�
English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

After presiding over the destinies of Jaquet Droz and RJ, Manuel Emch now works as an independent consultant and is a board member and advisory council member in the luxury goods industry. We talked independence, creativity, entrepreneurship and strategy.

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�A VERY WORRYING RISK OF A LOSS OF KNOW-HOW�

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

Greubel Forsey recently presented its Hand Made 1. As its name suggests, this exceptional watch was made almost entirely (95%) by hand. Europa Star took advantage of the occasion to meet Stephen Forsey, who told us of the constant effort by Greubel Forsey to conserve its know-how. A concern which, paradoxically, is aimed at ensuring them a future.

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�WE�RE MAKING THE MOST OF THE VINTAGE TREND�

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

While smartwatches are visible absolutely everywhere in the United States, Hamilton, that most American of Swiss watchmakers, is experiencing a strong resurgence of popularity in the country, especially among younger generations. The brand is reaping the benefits of a long-term strategy from which it has not deviated, based on affordable, vintage-inspired mechanical watchmaking and pioneering e-commerce.

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VICTORINOX: CHALLENGES OF THE AFFORDABLE WATCH

English � Espa�ol

Victorinox, which manages the watch production of both the Victorinox and Wenger brands at its horological centre in Del�mont, has just opened a new store in Lausanne. The century-old Swiss company is active in a segment of the industry � affordable Swiss-made watches � that has recorded lower volumes last year. We took the opportunity of the new opening to discuss these challenges with CEO Carl Elsener Jr.

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ABOUT EUROPA STAR

Subscribe to Europa Star to access high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927!

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Discover ads and articles from Europa Star�s digital archive. More than 100,000 pages of watchmaking history are available in one click with our Club.

More information >

CONTACT US
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Geneva, January 16, 2020

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LVMH WATCH WEEK IN DUBAI

This week for the first time, some 215 journalists from around the world as well as 180 retailers were invited by the LVMH Group in Dubai to discover new timepieces* of the group's watch brands.

Europa Star attended the new show, which was held at the Bulgari Hotel (read again our account of the extension of the hospitality network by Bulgari, available here in French).

Bulgari, Hublot as well as Zenith introduced new releases. Among their 2020 highlights, which you will discover below, are a Serpenti with an extra-small tourbillon, a new feminine line baptized Defy Midnight by Zenith, and a first integrated bracelet for the Big Bang. These brands, as well as TAG Heuer, will also introduce novelties at Baselworld this year.

Speaking of watch shows, our upcoming print edition (available in March) will include a comprehensive report on the future of fairs in the industry, with interviews from major stakeholders.

* Click on each watch to view details & prices

BULGARI SERPENTI SEDUTTORI TOURBILLON ROSE GOLD

BULGARI OCTO FINISSIMO MINUTE REPEATER

ZENITH DEFY MIDNIGHT

ZENITH DEFY 21 LAND ROVER EDITION

HUBLOT BIG BANG INTEGRAL

HUBLOT BIG BANG MP-11 RED MAGIC

ABOUT EUROPA STAR

Subscribe to Europa Star to access high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927!

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Discover ads and articles from Europa Star�s digital archive. More than 100,000 pages of watchmaking history are available in one click with our Club.

More information >

CONTACT US
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Geneva, February 13, 2020

WATCH FAIRS 2020: THE REPORT

Bulgari just announced it's pulling out of Baselworld. A structural change is under way, with brands preferring to organise their own events and take control of their own calendars. But the coronavirus is not making things any easier for those that have already pulled out: both Swatch Group and Seiko have had to cancel their global summits.

With globalisation and the new digital age, large gatherings of watch brands are facing major upheavals. We investigate this very hot topic in our upcoming March issue.

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Geneva, January 9, 2020

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THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING: "WHAT'S NEXT?"

Challenges are stacking up on every side. The watch industry finds itself facing not a single threat, however big that might be, but a whole series of challenges. All manner of questions are jostling for attention; questions about the product itself, the technology it uses, and how it is distributed. But there are also societal, sociological and geopolitical questions. The world is changing. Europa Star has launched a vast survey, and talked to many leading figures in an effort to begin to plot a course through the uncharted territory that lies ahead.

* Click on the portrait to discover the full article

"We have to reinvent the Swatch of the 21st century"

Jean-Christophe Babin

"Every week, I see high-end watch owners switching to Apple watches"

Max B�sser

"After-sales service is completely ignored in current thinking"

Christophe Musy

"We are only at the beginning of business in China"

Julien Tornare

"The smart watch is becoming a health monitoring device"

Ren� Weber

"Brands are starting to understand the mechanics of e-commerce"

St�phane Waser

THE FULL REPORT HERE

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Geneva, February 20, 2020

MEETING INDIA�S LARGEST LUXURY WATCH RETAILER

English � Espa�ol

REPORT - India will likely become the most populous country in the world by 2027. This stunning growth is not yet reflected in the watch industry, due to historical protectionist measures, a complex business environment and considerable economic disparities. India�s largest luxury watch retailer, Ethos, is nevertheless laying the groundwork and lobbying for change. In less than two decades, it has already disrupted the Indian watch market. We met its founder, Yasho Saboo.

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SECRET GENTA DESIGNS SOON UNVEILED

English � Espa�ol

EXCLUSIVE - From the Nautilus to the Royal Oak, the most celebrated designer left behind not only a long list of iconic watches, but some 3,400 unseen designs. We find out the keys to creating best-seller watches, and what the Genta family has in store to revive the legacy.

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A GILDED CAGE FOR THE SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY?

English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

COLUMN - Is the watchmaking industry simply finishing off a 30-year-long revolution bent on pursuing the high-end segment as the ultimate goal? Or does the increasingly marked abandonment of volumes pose a greater problem?

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN �G�RIE MOON PHASE

HAMILTON KHAKI FIELD TITANIUM AUTO

TITONI MASTER SERIES

PARMIGIANI FLEURIER TONDAGRAPH SLATE

HUBLOT CLASSIC FUSION UEFA CHAMPIONS LEAGUE

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November 23, 2020

HOURUNIVERSE: "WE'RE ON TRACK FOR 2021"

Will the Basel Fair, the undisputed leader of the world's watch fairs for a century, be reborn with a new identity, a new concept and a mix of physical and digital presence? Michel Loris-Melikoff is presenting the new HourUniverse concept. The first physical exhibition is planned for April 2021... unless the pandemic insists otherwise. With a digital platform no matter what happens, the manager says he is prepared for any eventuality.

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SUCCESS STORY: A REORIENTATION TOWARDS PROTECTIVE MASKS

With the pandemic now a part of everyday life, mask production is becoming a huge industrial market. Thousands of factories have opened in China to produce paper masks. Alarmed at the prospect of a potential ecological disaster, the founder of microfibre specialist Keller Trading has converted its facilities to produce masks that can be reused time after time. Babette Keller Liechti shares the chronology of her reaction to the unfolding crisis. An inspiring example for the whole industry.

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VERSACE INTRODUCES THE GRECA CHRONO INDIGLO

This sporty timepiece uses the innovative "Indiglo" technology: a light emanates from the dial when the crown is pushed, illuminating the watch and allowing the wearer to tell the time no matter where the night takes them. (Partner content)

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MAURICE DE MAURIAC GRAND COUR

Grand Cour: this is the name of the new watch from the Zurich-based brand Maurice de Mauriac. This timepiece is also the birth certificate for a new era, as is the first model developed only by Massimo and Leonard Dreifuss, the sons of founder Daniel Dreifuss, who are now taking over the family company.

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BULGARI'S OCTO FINISSIMO, BEHIND THE SCENES

To get a better idea of how the interaction between aesthetics and engineering came about in this collection, Europa Star met its masterminds Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Alfredo De Biase at Bulgari.

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July 27, 2020

"COLLECTORS WON'T BE ENOUGH FOR SWISS WATCHMAKING"

Mido, a Swiss volume brand specialising in automatic watches, plays a key role in the watchmaking ecosystem as a "transmission belt" between the bottom and the top of the pyramid. This segment has been weakened, however, as is it finds itself increasingly isolated, between the falling volume of quartz watches to its left, and the industry's marked retreat to the luxury range to its right. We asked Mido's CEO Franz Linder about the brand's new products, his view of the impact of Covid-19 on the industry, and the importance of attracting new generations.

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INHORGENTA TO COME BACK IN FEBRUARY 2021

As all physical events are adopting new strategies following the Covid-19 pandemic, the European jewellery and watchmaking fair Inhorgenta has published an "open letter" to the professional community to state its values and intentions. Europa Star being a long-time partner and supporter of the event, as well as a cosignatory of the letter, we reproduce its integral text here.

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HALL OF CRAZY MACHINES

Following the cancellation of almost all watch fairs of the first half of 2020, we invite you to browse through our Print Watch Fair special report. Here is our "Hall of Crazy Machines", that includes horological creations by A. Lange & S?hne, MB&F, Jacob & Co. and Greubel Forsey.

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE: INTRODUCING THE 2020 HIGHLIGHTS

In moving from Roger Dubuis to Jaeger-LeCoultre in January 2017, Lionel Favre was also moving from a completely disruptive universe to a brand with a great tradition. His experience of "rupture" in a brand prized by a new globalised elite would nevertheless prove very useful in his new position as product design director of Jaeger-LeCoultre. We met him to discuss the 2020 novelties.

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WATCHES & WONDERS SHANGHAI 2020

Watches & Wonders is coming to Shanghai for the first time. Eleven brands will exhibit at the West Bund Art Center, form September 9th to 13th, 2020. Europa Star will cover the event in the Chinese city.

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April 9, 2020

TIME: FROZEN OR BURNED OUT?

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

Watchmaking will not emerge unscathed from this historic coronavirus crisis. Its future face will depend on the overarching lessons that will be learned from this dramatic sequence of events. Because watchmaking has never been anything but a mirror of society. So, has time been simply frozen, or is it burned out? Mechanical watchmaking has a card to play here.

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ONLINE SALES IN THE FAST LANE

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

The coronavirus crisis is leading to grand-scale initiatives, such as total lockdowns, which would have been considered impossible only a few weeks ago. We have all been transformed by force into the guinea pigs of an unprecedented social experiment. We are urgently having to reorganise our priorities, logistics and distribution. Digital, which isolates as much as it connects, is increasingly becoming our daily focus of activity - including for the watch sector.

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WOLF: A SOLUTION FOR QUARANTINED RETAILERS

English . Espa?ol

Our friends at WOLF have crafted an innovative distribution concept in this "new normal" of social distancing and closed stores. We share here the letter they sent us, so that all professional watch retailers may know about it!

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NEW MODELS: TO LAUNCH OR NOT TO LAUNCH?

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

One heck of a dilemma is facing all the watch brands in the starting blocks right now. Ready, or nearly, to launch their new models in the run-up to the trade shows, the cancellations have brought them up short. And now that the whole world is in confinement, what should they do?

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SWISS MADE: THE DEBATE FLARES UP AGAIN.

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

.or perhaps it never ended. But the breakdown of the supply chains due to the pandemic is certain to put the label under more pressure. Both the advent of the digital age and this period of pandemic have revealed the Achilles' heel of the Swiss Made concept. In the meantime, some companies have opted to launch their own term or label concept.

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NOT ENOUGH MASKS, TOO MANY WATCHES?

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

The world is short of masks, but brimming over with watches. Stocks are overflowing. When business takes up again, the idea that it will be business as usual is illusory. Not only will these stocks have to be sold, a radical rethink will be required. Together.

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ABOUT EUROPA STAR

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December 14, 2020

WATCH RETAILERS: STRATEGIES FOR DEALING WITH THE PANDEMIC

With international travel halted, the absence of tourist customers has been keenly felt by the watch retail trade. Without this category of buyers, many are reinvesting in their local clientele and e-commerce, pending the emergence of a hypothetical "Christmas miracle". What are the best strategies for dealing with the pandemic? From entry-level to ultra-luxury, we've gathered multiple testimonials from retailers around the world.

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HEUER, ROLEX, PANERAI: ALL THE RESULTS OF PHILLIPS' "RACING PULSE" AUCTION

The sale was led by Paul Newman's Rolex "Big Red" Daytona, which achieved $5.5 million. The Heuer Monaco owned and gifted by Steve McQueen set a world record price for any Heuer watch at $2.2 million, while Sylvester Stallone's collection, including four Richard Mille watches and one Panerai, soared to $3.1 million. The New York auction achieved a total of $27.6 million, concluding a record-setting year for Phillips.

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NEW VERSIONS OF THE LEVELS MODEL BY ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF

The first "skyscraper" by Alexander Shorokhoff is extended: the already well-known and almost sold-out automatic double time watch Levels, which is determined by different levels of the dial, now gets two more colour "siblings". (Partner content)

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A KEY STEP FOR TITONI WITH ITS NEW DIVING WATCH

The first Seascoper came out in 1963, at that time still under the name Felca, Titoni's parent brand. Titoni cooperates with the well-known research diver and internationally famous marine biologist Uli Kunz, who shared his diving expertise for the development and roll-out of the new Seascoper 600. The result: a tough and comfortable line of timepieces fitted with Titoni's T10 in-house movement.

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ACROTEC: VERTICAL INTEGRATION IN THE SUPPLY SECTOR

Acrotec is one of the most important players in the watch supply industry. Operating in the watchmaking, medtech and precision high-tech sectors, in 2019 this group of some twenty companies, currently employing 1,200 people, generated turnover of CHF 233 million with net profits of CHF 13.8 million, compared to 8.5 million in 2018. (Editor's note: The Carlyle Group, the US private equity giant, announces that it has entered into an agreement to acquire Acrotec. The transaction is expected to be completed in the first quarter of 2021.)

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April 7, 2020

Online Survey

WHAT DOES THE FUTURE HOLD FOR WATCH SHOWS?

The unusual circumstances we are living through call for careful reflection about the future. We have added a new quick survey module to our website, to give our readers the opportunity to voice their opinions on hot topics for the world of watches, in a rapidly changing environment. The first poll is about the future of watch events, which have come under considerable pressure in recent years, and have now been utterly disrupted by the outbreak of the pandemic. The online survey will be updated regularly.

VOTE NOW

RELATED ARTICLES

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FABIENNE LUPO: "WE'LL REINVENT TRADE SHOWS!"

SIAR: BUILDING ON THE MEXICAN RETAILERS' NETWORKS

XAVIER DIETLIN''S FORMULA FOR FUTURE WATCH SHOWS

DUBAI WATCH WEEK: THE SHOW INSPIRING OTHER SHOWS

INHORGENTA: THE EUROPEAN CHALLENGER

MEETING THE SHANGHAI WATCH GANG

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October 12, 2020

INSTANT-LAB (EPFL): BREAKING THE SECOND BARRIER

It is sometimes said that, as far as mechanical watch movements are concerned, everything, or nearly everything, has already been achieved. So is mechanical horology set in stone? Nothing could be farther from the truth. Mechanical watchmaking still has plenty of surprises in store for us, as demonstrated by Dr Ilan Vardi, senior scientist at the EPFL Patek Philippe Chair in Micromechanical and Horological Design, known more simply as: "Instant-Lab."

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FERDINAND BERTHOUD: THE CHRONOM?TRE FB 2RE

The Chronom?tre FB 2RE, the architecture and modular case of which are directly inspired by the Marine No. 6 clock built by the great horologist Ferdinand Berthoud, also pays tribute to his quest for chronometric precision by introducing an innovative calibre which combines a chain-and- fus?e system with a remontoir d'?galit?.

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IN THE WHITE ROOMS OF CSEM

In the early 1980s, at the height of the crisis affecting the Swiss watch sector, three separate institutes funded by the Swiss state and large watchmaking groups of the time, Centre ?lectronique Horloger (CEH), Fondation Suisse pour la Recherche en Microtechnique (FSRM) and Laboratoire Suisse de Recherches Horlog?res (LSRH), merged under the auspices of the Swiss Confederation to become the Centre Suisse d'Electronique et de Microtechnique, the Swiss Center for Electronics and Microtechnology, or CSEM. Major watch brands teamed up with this institution and also became shareholders. Today, this research centre is the beating heart of horological innovation.

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GRAND SEIKO'S CHRONOMETRIC QUEST

To widespread surprise, in September Grand Seiko presented a wholly unprecedented concept movement, the T0 (T-Zero) Constant-force Tourbillon. Its precision - under laboratory conditions - is impressive: ? 0.5 seconds a day. This chronometric performance is made possible thanks to a movement that combines a tourbillon with a fully integrated constant-force mechanism on the same axis - a world first.

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F.P.JOURNE: 20 YEARS OF RESONANCE

The most state-of-the-art innovations sometimes have roots reaching way back to previous centuries. Such is the case of the horological application of the acoustic resonance phenomenon. We owe it to the clockmaker Antide Janvier who, back in 1780, adapted this astonishing physical phenomenon for use in watchmaking. Fran?ois-Paul Journe has succeeded in applying the principle to a wristwatch, which he did back in 2000, his objective being unparalleled precision.

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May 21, 2020

#RESILIENCE

The new issue of Europa Star is devoted to the theme of "resilience". Resilience of people, brands, technologies and networks in the face of a pandemic with consequences on an unprecedented scale. The issue that immediately follows will be the magazine''s version of a watch show. Two complementary issues, hence.

A SPECIAL ISSUE

This is not the first pandemic to hit the watch industry. But the measures being taken across the world to tackle the coronavirus are unprecedented, with a global lockdown. The consequences for the watch industry will be considerable: in the short term, there is the cessation of trade and logistical flows. Over the longer term, we could see values transformed. In this special issue, based on the theme of resilience in the watch industry, we try to make sense of the current situation.

The imagery in this issue is based around the Japanese concept of Kintsugi, which is the art of "precious scars": a way of mending broken porcelain by joining the pieces together with lacquer mixed with powdered gold. Will the watch industry once again be able to turn lead into gold?

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EUROPA STAR: A CENTURY OF WATCH JOURNALISM

We are entering the anniversary of the decade that saw the birth of the Europa Star publishing house, one century ago. It was during the Roaring Twenties, a period of intense social, cultural and artistic activity, that the company was founded by an audacious entrepreneur whose aim, from the outset, was to bring the global watchmaking community together. Since then, Europa Star has accompanied all the developments in the industry, observing one very special concept along the way: resilience. We are devoting our new special print edition to this theme.

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NIVADA, A SLEEPING BEAUTY AWAKES

The watch industry has no shortage of sleeping giants. The most emblematic of them, Universal Gen?ve, belongs to the Hong Kong group Stelux, which is keeping it in hibernation. Minerva, for its part, was transferred to Montblanc by the Richemont group. Another, Nivada Grenchen, is currently undergoing a revival, under the impetus of a young serial entrepreneur and watch industry veteran.

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WATCHES AND CARS: A NO-NONSENSE COMPARISON

On a superficial level, the worlds of watchmaking and automobiles are often compared through the many partnerships forged between the two industries. But what if we took the comparison to its logical conclusion, by looking at how these two industries are adapting to the new digital world and the pandemic crisis? Journalist Jorge Guerreiro, who covers both the automotive and watchmaking industries, answered our questions.

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TOMORROW, A DIGITAL TWIN FOR ALL WATCHES

The pandemic crisis that the watch industry is going through is also accelerating its digital transition. Among the most promising elements of this is the possibility of using blockchain technology to maintain control over a watch's lifecycle. The watchmaking brand Czapek & Cie has joined forces with Zurich-based startup Adresta to implement digital monitoring of its watches, from the workshop to after-sales service, including transactions from one owner to another. It's a system that will only prove its worth if the watch industry succeeds in imposing trust where, all too often, there is mistrust between brands, retailers and customers.

READ NOW

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Geneva, August 29, 2020

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GENEVA WATCH DAYS 2020: HIGHLIGHTS (I)

The event was a first opportunity in months for the watch community to meet and discover new timepieces from the participating brands. Here are some of the highlights introduced during this new show format adapted to a post-coronavirus world.

Click on each image to discover the timepiece.

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October 19, 2020

WHEN AND HOW TO WATCH THIS YEAR'S HOROLOGY FORUM

The 6th edition of the Horology Forum will break with tradition and take place digitally, on the Dubai Watch Week YouTube platform. Four panels will premiere on October 24, 26, 28 and November 9, all airing at 9 PM Dubai (GMT +4).

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ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF: KANDY AVANTGARDE 2

The Kandy Avantgarde 2 is truly conceived against "boredom on the wrist"! While its colourful patterns and subdivisions make it easy to read the time, this limited edition (100 pieces) is extraordinarily lively and true to the slogan "Art on the Wrist". Real gold wires fill the milled grooves of the modern black PVD-coated angular case. The rotor is hand-engraved and refined. (Sponsored Content)

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THE LESSON OF ROLEX

In watchmaking circles, people tend to mock Rolex fans who buzz with excitement on social media because the brand with the crown logo has made some minute change - the shape of a hand, a touch of colour - to one of its iconic models. But they've got it all wrong. Because that is precisely the essence of innovation as practised by Rolex.

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URWERK: THE UR-100

The UR-100 is the "fourth episode in the intergalactic saga of the 100 collection", as Martin Frei, co-founder of Urwerk, in-house designer and sci-fi geek, explains.

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EDITORIAL: A FRAGILE FABRIC

When the fabric of a dress dries out, it is weakened, unravels and tears, becomes shapeless and rapidly falls apart... What is the link to watchmaking? Pierre Maillard explains it in his latest opinion piece.

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September 7, 2020

A COMPLETE REVIEW OF OMEGA'S NEW TIMEPIECES

Omega, which is champing at the bit after the cancellation of Tokyo 2020 and the postponed release of the latest James Bond movie, has chosen to physically present its latest models - which have already been introduced in stores - to small groups of journalists around the world. The Constellation collection in particular is in the spotlight this year.

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CARL F. BUCHERER CELEBRATES THE FOUR SEASONS

The Patravi TravelTec Color Edition Four Seasons by Carl F. Bucherer celebrates the beauty of Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. The COSC-certified chronograph, first introduced in 2006, has now been enhanced with four intense new colors.

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INTRODUCING THE BULGARI ALUMINIUM WATCH

The new Bulgari Aluminium watch reignites the fire lit back in 1998 by the first-generation models. It speaks a universal language that goes far beyond gender, age, trends, eras, social profile and personal style. More than 20 years have gone by, yet time has had no hold on this line, which has remained vibrantly alive in watchmaking memory.

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GRAND SEIKO'S SPECIAL RELATIONSHIP WITH NATURE

The brilliant blue sky over Mt. Iwate at dawn that greets the watchmakers and technicians of the Grand Seiko Studio Shizukuishi inspires a new limited edition watch, made in celebration of the brand's 60th anniversary.

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UPCOMING: EUROPA STAR''S "THE INNOVATION ISSUE"

On September 30, Europa Star will publish an issue devoted to "those watchmakers who innovate" even in times of crisis, just like the one we''ve been experiencing for the last six months.

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November 16, 2020

GPHG 2020: THE AWARD-WINNING TIMEPIECES AND PEOPLE

The 2020 prize list of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Gen?ve (GPHG) was unveiled on Thursday November 12 at the 20th GPHG awards ceremony, a digital show hosted by actor Edouard Baer.

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WATCHES WILL HAVE THEIR OWN BIOMETRIC PASSPORTS

To replace the traditional authenticity papers, Origyn, a new Swiss foundation, is offering biometric recognition of watches by means of a simple smartphone photograph. Vincent Perriard, its co-founder, explains how this approach differs from the many blockchain solutions already on the market, as well as exploring the implications of this innovation, which go well beyond the fight against counterfeiting.

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THE START OF A NEW CHAPTER FOR MOUVEX 1911

At the start of the 20th century, Mouvex was an elegant watch brand sold in boutiques in Paris and across Switzerland. The historical Swiss watch brand has just been relaunched by an enthusiastic family of designers. In line with the brand's history, the new owners have crafted a collection inspired by Art Deco, playing on a variation of square and round shapes. Special packaging has also been released. (Partner content)

DISCOVER THE TIMEPIECE

ONEOF: A NEW ACCURACY TOOL, NOW AVAILABLE IN THE US

The Swiss brand offers an innovative, portable and compact device that validates the accuracy of a mechanical timepiece. It is now available for watch aficionados and professionals in the USA, in three different versions.

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THE LONGINES LEGEND DIVER GOES BRONZE

The Legend Diver Watch, an emblematic timepiece from the Longines Heritage segment, is now available in bronze. This warm-toned design gives one of the brand's earliest diver watches a new look.

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Geneva, March 3, 2020

EUROPA STAR TO ORGANISE A "PRINT WATCH FAIR" IN A SPECIAL APRIL 2020 EDITION

Our publication, distributed in 170 countries, provides an alternative means of showcasing new watch releases in 2020, following the cancellation of major trade shows. We will be presenting a special edition in the form of a "print watch fair".

In response to the cancellation of several watch events, including Baselworld and Watches & Wonders, Europa Star has taken the decision to dedicate its April issue to unveiling the major new watch releases of 2020.

As the only dedicated watch print publication distributed to all the world markets (170 countries), Europa Star is a key tool in ensuring watch brands reach a global audience when communicating their latest product releases - more so today than ever.

The next issues of Europa Star will be published in April, June, September and November 2020. They will be circulated to our loyal readers, both professionals and aficionados, in 170 countries including China (see circulation below).

Further information on the special content to be included in the April issue will follow shortly.

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December 16, 2020

SPECIAL

100,000 PAGES OF WATCH CONTENT AWAIT YOU THIS CHRISTMAS

Start off the year 2021 on the right foot. By subscribing now to Europa Star, you will not only receive our print issue wherever in the world you might be, but you''ll also get digital access to all our issues since 1950. A treasure trove of watch stories is just waiting to be discovered!

And that''s not all: new sets of magazines will be available online from February 2021, comprising more than 50,000 additional pages going back as far as the 1930s!

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September 14, 2020

FREDERIQUE CONSTANT: RELAUNCH OF THE HIGHLIFE COLLECTION

Frederique Constant launched the first models in the Highlife collection over 20 years ago. Their design was characterised by the special strap built into the case. For 2020, the brand has updated the ingenious concept and reinvigorated the Highlife collection by adding three new models: the Highlife Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, Highlife Heart Beat and Highlife Automatic COSC.

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ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF - LEVELS

The Doubletimer Levels is structured by the different levels of the dial, hence its name. One level represents the time at home, another the time in a different place in the world. The third level shows the company''s logo, while the fourth indicates the limited number. The highest level is positioned above the calendar window. A magnifying glass on a raised bridge allows to enlarge the date. A colored stripe provides added creativity. Limited to 99 pieces. (sponsored content)

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VACHERON CONSTANTIN'S NEW OVERSEAS UNVEILED

The 41 mm self-winding model, presented at the Watches & Wonders Shanghai 2020 exhibition, combines for the first time its sleek silhouette sculpted in pink gold with a blue Overseas dial.

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CARL F. BUCHERER: A NEW DESIGN IN THE HERITAGE COLLECTION

Thought as an homage to more than 130 years of watchmaking, Carl F. Bucherer's Heritage collection is growing. The line celebrated its premiere in 2018 with the Heritage Tourbillon DoublePeripheral in rose gold. This timepiece is now also available in elegant white gold - in a limited run of 88 units.

READ THE ARTICLE

UPCOMING: EUROPA STAR''S "THE INNOVATION ISSUE"

On September 30, Europa Star will publish an issue devoted to "those watchmakers who innovate" even in times of crisis, just like the one we''ve been experiencing for the last six months. Get ready for some surprises.

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March 10, 2020

WE''RE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

EDITORIAL - As we write these lines, the watch industry is in the throes of its worst existential crisis since the 1970s. A wave of bankruptcies has begun. And there is no sign of any spirit of solidarity, any sense of fellowship, that could help to preserve the industrial fabric. The coronavirus has struck at the heart of an already fragmented watch industry.

By Serge Maillard
(original version in French here)

Much ink has been spilled about the cancellation of Baselworld and Watches & Wonders. But all that is really just a distraction from the bigger picture. Since the emergence of the coronavirus, supply chains have been severed, shops deserted and the entire industrial fabric of the watch industry has been thrown into disarray.

Here's the problem: unlike in the quartz crisis of the 1970s and 1980s, when the entire industry faced upheaval, or even back in the 19th century, when a concerted industrial response was put in place to meet the threat of American mass production, an increasingly individualistic attitude has taken hold over the last decade among the powers that be. It's every man for himself. The disaffection with Baselworld was the most obvious symptom of this malaise.

Coronavirus has struck at the heart of an already fragmented watch industry. Both upstream and down, many of the minor players have become disillusioned by the way they have been treated. Suppliers, already weakened from years of pressure from actors who seem to be increasingly disconnected from the watchmaking "soil", were the first to feel the impact of the crisis. These fertile sources of innovation will also be the first casualties when (when?) calm returns.

Downstream, many retailers are already in too precarious a position to react. They have lost their role as "prescribers", all too often becoming no more than showcases for the diktats of the brands that control their destiny. As someone pointed out to us recently, "a delivery company could do that just as well."

The media, among which we count ourselves, are also strongly impacted. Many journalists are now taking the decision to refocus on direct watch sales or brand communication, or they're leaving the sector altogether. Only a slim space remains for a publication such as ours, whose aim is to produce high-quality, uncompromising and impartial journalism and analysis, as we have done since 1927 (and for which we thank our loyal supporters!). An industry that abandons its specialist and independent journalists will also have to face the consequences of intellectual impoverishment.

The watchmaking ecosystem relies on all these actors, these artisans who toil behind the scenes, driven by a quiet determination. But for a few years now, it's been clear that there is "something rotten in the state of watchmaking". The pandemic is an accelerator of history, throwing the spotlight on fault lines that have been spreading, unnoticed, for some time. They say that a man's character can be judged by how he treats the weak. The character of a watch brand, or of an entire industry, can also be measured against this yardstick. And as things stand, let's just say. they don't come off too well.

When the time comes to rebuild everything that has been destroyed, all too many of those firms that are the heart, the brains and the limbs of the watch industry will have vanished. Vanished - through a lack of solidarity, a lack of vision and - oh the irony - a lack of time.

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July 10, 2020

A review of the first half of 2020 (1st part)

EXHIBITIONS, GROUPS, DIGITAL: SWISS WATCHMAKING ON THE MOVE IN THE FACE OF THE PANDEMIC

In a few months, the crisis has precipitated events that had been in gestation for several years. The most striking was certainly the disappearance of Baselworld. But equally noteworthy was the acceleration in the use of social networks, a waltz of changes at Swatch Group, internal unrest at Richemont and, for almost everyone, an accelerated roll-out of digital strategies. Here's our selection of articles, in the form of a review of the Swiss watch industry in the first half of the year.

THE HEARTBREAKING FATE OF THE BASEL FAIR

As an exhibitor for more than 80 years, like so many members of the global watchmaking community, we can only express deep sadness at the heartbreaking fate of Baselworld. So many memories and emotions: part of the collective memory of watchmaking is about to disappear, as a result of the relationship between the exhibition and its exhibitors turning sour. Once again, the pandemic has acted as an accelerator of History.

READ THE ARTICLE

INSTAGRAM LIVE: SOCIAL MEDIA SHOW THEIR LIMITS

Numerous players in the watch industry have responded swiftly to the absence of physical encounters by increasing the number of sessions and interviews they host on Instagram. However, the low attendance often observed during these digital events also reveals their limitations, one of which is their ephemeral nature. The digital tap never stops flowing...

READ THE ARTICLE

VON K?NEL, THI?BAUD: TWO "ROCKS" OF SWISS WATCHMAKING

Two "rocks" of the Swiss watch industry, Walter von K?nel and Fran?ois Thi?baud are now stepping down from the day-to-day management of their brands (while remaining at chairman positions). At Swatch Group, an industrial conglomerate used to applying long-term strategies, the transition is smoother than it would be elsewhere, but the challenges are just as real. As we wait to learn more about the future directions their respective brands will take, a portrait of these two larger-than-life personalities of the Swiss watch industry, with help from our archives.

READ THE ARTICLE

WATCHMAKING'S "PRE-NETFLIX" MOMENT

The pandemic has led to the accelerated digitisation of our daily life. However, the watch industry finds itself still stuck at a stage similar to that of film or music, before the emergence of Netflix and Spotify - a vast digital jungle where counterfeiting and piracy prevail over the few authorised spaces. As inventories pile up and online outlets begin massively discounting, it's high time the digital landscape was properly structured and legitimised. But how is the watch industry to go from Napster to Netflix?

READ THE ARTICLE

RICHEMONT: A CORPORATE CULTURE IN QUESTION

The travails of the Richemont group more broadly reflect a corporate culture that seems somewhat out of sync with an ever more horizontal and complex world. The accelerating effect of the pandemic crisis reveals trends that have been at work for a long time, and that we were already worried about back in January 2019. To get out of this situation, the group's brands should be given greater autonomy. They deserve it!

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June 18, 2020

A SELECTION OF CREATIVE TIMEPIECES

Creativity has not been lost despite the pandemic. A selection of uncommon new watches by flagship brands & artisans that defy the status quo. More to explore in our upcoming print magazine: a "Print Watch Fair" (issued June 29).

OMEGA DE VILLE TOURBILLON NUMBERED EDITION

Omegas''s first ever Master Chronometer certified manual-winding central Tourbillon.

READ NOW

BEAUREGARD LILI

A miniature garden of hand polished precious stones by the Canadian watchmaker.

READ NOW

ZENITH DEFY 21 ULTRAVIOLET

The highest-frequency colour paired with the highest-frequency chronograph.

READ NOW

H. MOSER & CIE ? MB&F

A duet recital by horological friends Maximilian B?sser and Edouard Meylan.

READ NOW

KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN MARS CONQUEROR MK3 FIGHTER

Preparing the Great Escape, to Mars and beyond.

READ NOW

HUBLOT BIG BANG E

A new kind of fusion. With arty dials by Marc Ferrero.

READ NOW

SINGER TRACK1 PROTOTYPE

An exclusive piece of horology at the Phillips June auction.

READ NOW

JAQUET DROZ FLEUR DE LYS AND FLEUR DE VIE

An ultimate display of the art of "paillonn? enameling".

READ NOW

CHANEL MADEMOISELLE PRIV? BOUTON

Shining a light on the intimate world of Gabrielle Chanel.

READ NOW

VACHERON CONSTANTIN OVERSEAS PERPETUAL CALENDAR ULTRA-THIN SKELETON

An openworked movement that is also ultra-thin and houses a perpetual calendar.

READ NOW

PURNELL ESCAPE IIS TREASURE

The world's fastest triple-axis tourbillon now set with gemstones.

READ NOW

PIAGET ALTIPLANO ULTIMATE CONCEPT

The thinnest mechanical watch in the world. Now more than a concept.

READ NOW

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June 11, 2020

A WEEKLY SELECTION OF ARTICLES

Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Instagram, IWC, China, Initium, Missoni, Hong Kong, Louis Vuitton, Nivada, Cars, Raketa and Blockchain.

IWC'S DA VINCI THROUGH THE EUROPA STAR ARCHIVE
English

ARCHIVES - A watch enthusiast and tech professional based in the US, Stephen Foskett has been one of our most avid readers since we've started publicising our archives. On his site Grail Watch, he has written remarkable articles making use of Europa Star's past issues to resuscitate forgotten names or explore more mainstream models. In this special feature, he dives into our archives to uncover the history of IWC's Da Vinci, a quartz pioneer turned mechanical with time. Enjoy the ride and the read!

READ NOW

CHINA: "REVENGE SAVING, NOT REVENGE SPENDING"
English . Espa?ol

GUEST COLUMN - A cofounder of the well-known Chinese horological club, the Shanghai Watch Gang, Kelvin Sa shared with us his personal notebook, shedding some light on the advance of the pandemic in China as well as its impact on the collectors' mindset. The concept of "revenge saving" seems much more appropriate than "revenge spending" as a new normal, different from the past, is establishing itself in the country. An intimate glimpse with valuable lessons.

READ NOW

FRAN?OIS-HENRY BENNAHMIAS:
"MANY CHANGES ARE COMING OUR WAY"
English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

INTERVIEW - We spoke with the CEO of Audemars Piguet about the impact of the pandemic on the watch industry. While it is still too early to draw definitive conclusions, we can nevertheless already outline a few lessons from this sudden halt in activity - overactivity? - of our world and, consequently, of its watchmaking sector.

READ NOW

INSTAGRAM LIVE: SOCIAL MEDIA SHOW THEIR LIMITS
English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

SOCIAL MEDIA - Numerous players in the watch industry have responded swiftly to the absence of physical encounters by increasing the number of sessions and interviews they host on Instagram. However, the low attendance often observed during these digital events also reveals their limitations, one of which is their ephemeral nature. The digital tap never stops flowing...

READ NOW

HONG KONG: A "CRUCIAL, LIFE-AND-DEATH MOMENT"
English

RETAIL - Retail sales of watch and jewellery in specialized stores and department stores in Hong Kong continued to free-fall in April 2020 (-74.5% year-on-year), following a downwardly revised 74.4% drop in March. The industry is facing "a crucial, life-and-death moment of survival", according to the city's main retail body.

READ NOW

TOMORROW, A DIGITAL TWIN FOR ALL WATCHES
English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

BLOCKCHAIN - The pandemic crisis that the watch industry is going through is also accelerating its digital transition. Among the most promising elements of this is the possibility of using blockchain technology to maintain control over a watch's lifecycle. The watchmaking brand Czapek & Cie has joined forces with Zurich-based startup Adresta to implement digital monitoring of its watches, from the workshop to after-sales service, including transactions from one owner to another. It's a system that will only prove its worth if the watch industry succeeds in imposing trust where, all too often, there is mistrust between brands, retailers and customers.

READ NOW

PATEK PHILIPPE: A FEW LESSONS ON RESILIENCE
English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

RETROSPECTIVE - Resilience. Scientifically speaking, resilience is a value (expressed in joules per cm2) used in physics to represent the resistance of a metal to shocks and breaking. It's a pretty apt comparison when we're talking about watchmaking. More broadly, we also use the word "resilience" to mean "ability to recover quickly from difficulties." This is a quality Patek Philippe has demonstrated many times throughout its long history, and no doubt will have reason to call upon again very soon.

READ NOW

INITIUM: CONVERTING PEOPLE TO WATCHES
English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

ANNIVERSARY - Five years after holding its first horological initiation class in Switzerland, the startup can pride itself on having modernised the induction process to watchmaking, and opened it up to a larger audience. Their project strikes a chord at a time when the word "experience" is on everyone's lips. Initium is hoping for a resurgence in the popularity of its workshops now that the lockdown is being lifted.

READ NOW

A NEW WATCH BRAND APPEARS DESPITE THE PANDEMIC
English . Espa?ol

INTERVIEW - After partnering with Versace and Ferragamo, Timex Group Luxury Division has secured the licence to produce watches for Missoni. How did they achieve this, in a world of fashion watches that has been thrown into disarray in recent years, and has now been hit by the pandemic? We interviewed Paolo Marai, President & CEO of Timex Group Luxury Division.

READ NOW

LOUIS VUITTON, POLARISING HAUTE HORLOGERIE
English . Fran?ais

PORTRAIT - Louis Vuitton's watchmaking output often flies under the radar of purists because of its exclusive distribution. It is one of the few luxury houses to have set foot inside the closed circle of Haute Horlogerie. The brand owes this achievement to the technical duo that drives it, Michel Navas and Enrico Barbasini. We spoke with the former to discuss the brand's new creations - including a Poin?on de Gen?ve model with an unapologetically polarising design, for die-hard "LV" fans only.

READ NOW

NIVADA, A SLEEPING BEAUTY AWAKES
English . Fran?ais

REVIVAL - The watch industry has no shortage of sleeping giants. The most emblematic of them, Universal Gen?ve, belongs to the Hong Kong group Stelux, which is keeping it in hibernation. Minerva, for its part, was transferred to Montblanc by the Richemont group. Another, Nivada Grenchen, is currently undergoing a revival, under the impetus of a young serial entrepreneur and watch industry veteran.

READ NOW

WATCHES AND CARS: A NO-NONSENSE COMPARISON
English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

INDUSTRY - On a superficial level, the worlds of watchmaking and automobiles are often compared through the many partnerships forged between the two industries. But what if we took the comparison to its logical conclusion, by looking at how these two industries are adapting to the new digital world and the pandemic crisis? Journalist Jorge Guerreiro, who covers both the automotive and watchmaking industries, answered our questions.

READ NOW

RAKETA, THE BEATING HEART OF RUSSIAN WATCHMAKING
English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

RUSSIA - A giant watch factory during the Soviet era, Raketa has never stopped working. But this St. Petersburg-based company is a mere shadow of its former self after the difficult transition to a market economy. Supported by a group of investors, an entrepreneur has revived it and turned it into a manufacture proud of its heritage, which it fully embraces in its highly original designs. The brand is also able to count on a very active online community of Soviet watch aficionados.

READ NOW

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November 9, 2020

A PORTRAIT OF THE LONGINES SPIRIT COLLECTION

ON THE COVER OF EUROPA STAR - What do Amelia Earhart, Paul-Emile Victor, Elinor Smith and Howard Hughes have in common? Two things: they showed an admirable determination to set new records, and they were equipped with Longines instruments during their pioneering exploits. At a time when the world is full of uncertainties, the Longines Spirit collection, with its clear design, is a testimony to those who dared to open up new horizons.

TO THE ARTICLE

WATCH THE GPHG 2020 CEREMONY ON EUROPA STAR

MARK YOUR CALENDAR - The awarding ceremony of the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Gen?ve 2020 will be live streamed on Europa Star''s website on November 12 at 6:30 PM, Geneva time. Just click on the link below to watch the event and discover the competing timepieces.

STREAM THE GPHG

PRESENTING: "AUTUMN" BY ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF

PARTNER CONTENT - The model "Autumn" is a homage to nature and the colorful autumn in all its glory. The leaf design is refined in yellow-gold and the diamond dust is underlaid with orange color. The case and hands are plated in a warm chocolate tone. The stingray leather strap shines in a bright red. A very harmonious look, but that's not all: the rotor of the Swiss automatic movement is also provided with a hand-engraved golden maple leaf to manifest the theme in a final touch.

DISCOVER THE TIMEPIECE

RECYCLING FISHING NETS FROM THE OCEAN TO THE WRIST

ENVIRONMENT - Ulysse Nardin presents a concept watch designed to limit environmental impact and promote sustainability. The timepiece is the result of a dedicated research unit implemented by the brand to study materials from the sea, particularly the characteristics of oyster shells, algae, marine PET (plastic bottles) and polyamide fishing nets.

READ THE ARTICLE

ORIGINAL: DELMA'S TIDAL TRACKING TIMEPIECE

SAILING - With the Oceanmaster Tide, Delma introduces a tidal tracking feature to its series of Oceanmaster timepieces. This new component enables tracking of the ebb and flow of the sea at port or in the most extreme and remote locations.

READ THE ARTICLE

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December 7, 2020

CARL F. BUCHERER AND THE MANERO FLYBACK'S COSMOPOLITAN SPIRIT

COVER STORY - As the world emerges from an unprecedented year, the Made in Lucerne brand is renewing its Manero Flyback line. These models complete with complications embrace a cosmopolitan spirit well suited to the new reality of our time. Let's take a closer look at this sporty-chic and elegantly optimistic series.

READ THE ARTICLE

A DECADE LOST, OR A DECADE WON FOR WATCHMAKING?

EDITORIAL - The watch industry is going through its sharpest decline ever recorded over the last 80 years. How to make a "lost decade for watchmaking" a decade won in some aspects at least?

READ THE ARTICLE

MILUS: INTRODUCING THE SNOW STAR "ICE BLUE"

PARTNER CONTENT - Originally created in the 1940s, the Milus Snow Star was designed for US Navy pilots, who carried a box containing a Milus watch and other precious objects to help them survive if forced to land in unknown territories. The reissue of this masterpiece channels the spirit of the original Snow Star.

READ THE ARTICLE

A SPECIAL REPORT ABOUT WATCH SUPPLIERS

REPORT - There's nothing better than a tour of the mountains of the watchmaking Jura region to meet the suppliers, sub-contractors or cocontractors - call them what you will - who form the very weft of the Swiss watchmaking fabric and, in these difficult times, take the temperature of business in general and assess the health of the individual firms.

READ THE ARTICLE

VACHERON CONSTANTIN: AN INTRODUCTION TO "LES COLLECTIONNEURS"

VINTAGEMANIA - Chosen by the brand's heritage department specialists, ten vintages watches now make part of "Les Collectionneurs", a collection available for sale worldwide. A presentation.

READ THE ARTICLE

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March 13, 2020

TIME TO REFLECT ON THE FATE OF THE WATCH INDUSTRY!

Europa Star provides a unique resource to help you gain perspective on what is happening to the watch industry today, by looking through the lens of History.
Get access now to more than 600 issues dating back to 1950, and enrich your outlook.

GET ACCESS TO OUR DATABASE

Watch brands are always eager to look to the past, to revive vintage models and create the bestsellers of tomorrow.

In a time of deep existential crisis for the watch industry, it is also worth looking to history for business guidance, especially when, like today, it's hard to get your bearings.

The Cold War, the quartz crisis, the first pandemic of 2003 and the 2008 financial crisis presented no less of a threat than today''s pandemic, even though the size of the watch industry now makes its impact seem bigger.

Europa Star has been covering all these transformative episodes for the watch industry since 1927. We have already digitised all our editions since 1950, and made them easily accessible on a dedicated platform.

By subscribing here and now, you will get immediate access to this unique resource, and help to ensure we can continue digitising content going back to the 1920s. It''s easy, just one click away!

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July 13, 2020

A SPECIAL FOLIO DEDICATED TO HAMILTON

In this special issue in partnership with Hamilton, we introduce the new versions of the Hamilton Pulsar, the world''s first digital watch, we dig into our archives to rediscover the first time we announced the timepiece in 1970, and we talk with Hamilton's former CEO Sylvain Dolla. It will allow you to understand all the ins and outs of this major relaunch.

"An all-too rare sign of optimism in a chaotic world? Now that the time has come to start thinking about the post-coronavirus world, the new PSR model, a reedition of the 1970 Hamilton Pulsar, embodies exactly what differentiates Swiss watches from smartwatches, and what's more, with a digital display: it's a question of character."

"Digital displays have been on a roll for the past five years with the emergence of the smartwatch. So it's high time to honour the pioneer of the genre: the Pulsar, launched by Hamilton in 1970, the "first digital watch". Not a smartwatch, of course. But, yesterday as today, with its red numerals that remain engraved in your memory, it has always been sufficient unto itself."

(...)

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March 19, 2020

1918: HOW THE WATCH INDUSTRY DEALT WITH THE SPANISH FLU

RETROSPECTIVE - This is not the first pandemic to hit the Swiss watch industry. In 1918, after the First World War, the Spanish flu struck. To save itself, the industry had to move upmarket. What about today?

By Pierre Maillard

1918: SPANISH FLU

"The most obvious effect of the current crisis is that the sale of quality and luxury watches has become extremely difficult. Our watchmaking trade today consists largely in selling cheap watches. The result has been a damaging fall in the average value of watches, while the price of the raw materials has risen in unprecedented fashion.
(...)

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October 26, 2020

WHAT RALPH LAUREN'S WATCHMAKING STRATEGY REVEALS

Fashion brands entering the watch industry are facing difficult strategic choices, particularly with regard to their positioning and distribution. Following the end of its joint venture with Richemont, Ralph Lauren is strengthening its watch offer in a more affordable range, and focusing distribution within its own network, notably through the launch of its new Polo Watch line.

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IS THE SECONDARY WATCH MARKET MORE RESILIENT?

Facing the pandemic, is the digitisation of sales, coupled with a tendency to double down on a few specific blue-chip brands in a time of crisis, making second-hand platforms more popular than ever?

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HANHART'S 417 ES: AN EXCITING REVIVAL

More than 60 years ago, this historic model served as the first pilot's chronograph for the German armed forces. Today, it is revived as a robust chronograph with an exciting history. An introduction.

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A SWISS R&D TEAM INTRODUCES "HOSTED WATCH MANUFACTURING"

Becoming a "manufacture" is the dream of many smaller and even large watch brands hoping to differentiate themselves, especially in the middle of a global crisis. A team of Swiss watch veterans in a new structure called THE Plus aims to offer the latest developments in calibres, such as a new micro-rotor movement, and even a full concept of "hosted manufacturing".

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JAEGER-LECOULTRE TO ORGANIZE PUBLIC WORKSHOPS

The Swiss brand announces the opening of "Atelier d'Antoine", a new initiative that gives watch collectors, enthusiasts and members of the general public the opportunity to immerse themselves in the world of fine watchmaking in the manufacture's building in Le Sentier.

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July 6, 2020

NEW SUMMER EDITIONS:
GLOBAL, SWITZERLAND, USA, CHINA
A PRINT WATCH FAIR - NOW AVAILABLE IN PRINT AND DIGITAL FOR CLUB MEMBERS

Dear readers,

We are thrilled to share with you that our new issue 3/20 is now available in print, as well as on our digital platform. Simply log in or subscribe here to read the Global issue (100 pages) that is designed as a "Print Watch Fair". You will discover our choices of thematic halls and models. Moreover, the Europa Star Club gives you access to all our magazines since 1950 (more than 100,000 pages).

You can also click directly on each Cover to view the e-versions of our regional Swiss, American and Chinese editions.

Our next issue will be published in September 2020.

I wish you a great summer and thank you for your continuous support!

Serge Maillard
Publisher

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August 10, 2020

THE CRISIS-PROOF SIDE OF WATCHMAKING

While the turnover of the Swiss watch industry collapsed in the first half of the year, the online platform for rare watches A Collected Man announced that it had doubled its sales over the same period. The crisis is accelerating the concentration of the market around a few "crisis-proof" brands and models, while increasingly legitimising e-commerce and the pre-owned sector. We interviewed Silas Walton, the founder of the British company launched in 2014.

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THE INTELLIGENCE SERVICE OF THE SWISS WATCH INDUSTRY

In the 21st century more than ever before, reliable information is the key to industrial success. As early as the 1960s, the Swiss watchmaking industry set up a structure responsible for technological and commercial monitoring. Since then, the Centredoc cooperative has added monitoring connected watches, artificial intelligence and 3D printing to its range of information. Its director, Harald Jenny, answered our questions.

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LONGINES: THE FORGOTTEN "FIRST COMMERCIAL QUARTZ CRYSTAL WATCH"

On August 20, 1969, Longines convened the press in Geneva to announce the world's first commercial quartz wristwatch. Known as the Ultra-Quartz, it was more accurate than any other production wristwatch. Prototypes were shown, photographs and documents were shared, and Longines promised that production would soon begin. Longines appeared to have a convincing lead over Seiko, Girard-Perregaux, Omega, and the Swiss CEH. However, the Longines Ultra-Quartz is nearly forgotten today. What happened?

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CHRONOSWISS OPEN GEAR RESEC CHOCOLATE

The luscious Chronoswiss Open Gear ReSec Chocolate features a dark case and a structured dial in fiery chilli-red. This modern mechanical timepiece with a hypnotising retrograde complication is the brand's most "denim-compatible" watch to date.

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INTRODUCING THE GENUS GNS1.2 TD

After presenting a new way of looking at and telling time with orbital hours and minutes, which garnered the Mechanical Exception Prize at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Gen?ve, Genus explores the world of metal artisanship. The Genus GNS1.2 TD is carved from a block of Damascene Titanium, the work of expert metalsmithing. It will be provided with a Blockchain-secured digital certificate.

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March 26, 2020

PUBLISHER''S NOTE
The global pandemic calls for new strategies and reflections. We navigate between optimism and pessimism, but will always choose the former over the latter. Our thoughts with all of you in these challenging times!

WE'RE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

EDITORIAL - As we write these lines, the watch industry is in the throes of its worst existential crisis since the 1970s. A wave of bankruptcies has begun. The coronavirus has struck at the heart of an already fragmented watch industry.
(Free access)

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THE CLASH OF CONCEPTS AND THE REMAKING OF WATCH FAIRS

English . Fran?ais

ANALYSIS - Total vertical integration or task-sharing: which is the right strategy for an era of digital globalisation? Baselworld and Watches & Wonders may well have been cancelled in 2020 due to the coronavirus, but this question remains valid for the future of the watch shows. (Content reserved for subscribers)

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TISSOT''S FIRST CONNECTED WATCH

English . Espa?ol

VIDEO - Tissot launches its Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar: a hybrid Swiss watch that combines a traditional timepiece with connected functionalities. The Tissot T-Touch Connect Solar has the potential to guarantee six months of autonomy due to its solar energy system. Its operating system was created in Switzerland. (Free access)

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CHANEL J12 X-RAY:
ICONIC TRANSPARENCY

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol . ??

ON OUR COVER - People say that, at the age of twenty, you're sure of everything, particularly of yourself! The aphorism is certainly true of the J12 X-Ray, an exceptional anniversary piece launched by Chanel to celebrate the 20th birthday of the iconic J12, born in 2000 and, for that reason, often described as the first watch icon of the 21st century. (Free access)

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NOT ENOUGH MASKS, TOO MANY WATCHES?

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

CHRONICLE - The world is short of masks, but brimming over with watches. Stocks are overflowing. When business takes up again, the idea that it will be business as usual is illusory. Not only will these stocks have to be sold, a radical rethink will be required. Together. (Free access)

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AN INTERVIEW WITH GEORGES KERN

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

INTERVIEW - Surviving and thriving in our globalised, digital age means being one of those happy few brands that reach "godlike status", as Georges Kern puts it. The CEO and co-shareholder of Breitling is outspoken about the obsolescence of watch fairs, reducing the "noise" in Breitling's aesthetics, and his vision of the new luxury. (Content reserved for subscribers)

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THE HAMILTON PULSAR IS BACK

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

VIDEO - Introduced exactly 50 years ago, the Hamilton Pulsar was one of the emblematic creations of the space-age era and a favorite of forward thinkers and style leaders. With the Hamilton PSR, the brand is bringing back the original timepiece, fused with new technologies. (Free access)

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TAG HEUER: THE NEW CONNECTED

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

VIDEO - TAG Heuer pioneered the luxury connected watch segment in 2015 and has since introduced a variety of models, most recently the Connected Modular Golf Edition in 2019. With the third generation of its Connected timepiece, TAG Heuer solidifies its position in the luxury connected watch category. (Free access)

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FROM BULOVA TO OMEGA: 50 YEARS OF LUNAR ADVENTURES

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

IN OUR ARCHIVES - Today, we tend to associate the conquest of space with the Omega Speedmaster - the only watch worn on the moon. The Europa Star archives provide a more nuanced insight, showing when and how Omega appropriated the image of watchmaking partner of NASA for itself, mainly to the detriment of US company Bulova. (Content reserved for subscribers)

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PANDEMICS AND HOROLOGY

English . Fran?ais . Espa?ol

HISTORY - In 1918, at the end of World War One, the Spanish flu pandemic strikes. It will go on to cause 50 to 100 million deaths worldwide. To save Swiss watchmaking, it must go upmarket, asserted the Journal Suisse d'Horlogerie at the time. But what about today? (Content reserved for subscribers)

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BOVET DIMIER R?CITAL 29

BELL & ROSS R.S.20

AVI-8 SPITFIRE TYPE 300 AUTOMATIC

MAURICE LACROIX AIKON CHRONOGRAPH SKELETON

FR?D?RIQUE CONSTANT CLASSICS QUARTZ LADIES

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August 24, 2020

WEEKLY FOCUS: WATCH DIALS

THE VOUTILAINEN DIALS

"Most customers don't realise the amount of work that goes into making a dial, the number of tools, machines, different techniques you have to use." We met Kari Voutilainen, the master of hand-made dials.

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A BOOK ON THE MOST BEAUTIFUL WATCH DIALS

There are innumerable books devoted to watchmaking, but as astonishing as it may seem, until now there was no work, no comprehensive survey focused exclusively on dials. And yet! The dial is the face of the watch, the first thing you see, the thing that sets it apart from all the others. This gap has now been brilliantly filled by the reference work "Le Cadran, visage de la montre bracelet au 20e si?cle" (The Dial, the face of the wristwatch in the 20th century), by Dr. Helmut Crott.

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ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF: "REVOLUTION AVANTGARDE"

With this automatic model, Alexander Shorokhoff confirms his brand''s motto: "Against boredom on the wrist". The independent watchmaker created an extraordinarily rich dial, full of references to the revolutionary Avant-Garde movement and intriguing geometrical elements (sponsored content).

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DESIGN: FROM CONCEPT CARS TO CONCEPT WATCHES

For the past twenty years, Olivier Gamiette has created concept cars for a major automobile group. In his spare time, his passion is designing watches. The French designer has published a book introducing his sketches and creations. As the industry oscillates between vintage and retro-futurism, he hopes to bring his spectacular horological designs to life.

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JAQUET DROZ GRANDE SECONDE OFF-CENTERED CHRONOGRAPH

For the first time, the Grande Seconde Off-Centered Chronograph is equipped with an onyx dial. Deep and natural, this unique mineral allows the delicate composition designed by Jaquet Droz to subtly stand out.

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READ ALSO (IN CASE YOU MISSED THEM):

A portrait of Centredoc, the "intelligence service" of the Swiss watch industry
Meeting Silas Walton, the founder of A Collected Man
An interview with Davide Traxler, the CEO of Parmigiani Fleurier
Ariel Adams: Is the luxury industry ready for Blockchain?
Elie Bernheim, CEO of Raymond Weil, publishes his first novel

Subscribe to Europa Star to access high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927.

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June 16, 2020

MUST-READ: A HISTORY OF QUARTZ

A Europa Star contributor, Stephen Foskett has just published a superb retrospective on the CEH, Beta 21 and the history of the first Swiss quartz watch. The author used Europa Star (or EJW) and The New York Times among other sources to get his facts straight. We invite you to read the whole article on his blog "Grail Watch". Don''t miss either his latest article for Europa Star about the history of IWC''s Da Vinci. Stephen is also preparing an article with some more exclusive findings about the emergence of the quartz watch, to be featured soon in Europa Star... Watch archives have never been so contemporary!

CEH and the Beta 21:
The History of the First Swiss Quartz Watch

By Stephen Foskett

The development of the quartz wristwatch was a turning point for the timekeeping industry and shifted the balance from Switzerland to Japan and the United States, despite the fact that the Swiss industry developed the first such watch. This is the story of the tumultuous and controversial creation of the world's first quartz watch by the CEH in Neuch?tel.

Establishment of the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH)

The Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH) was established in 1962 in Neuch?tel as a response to the emergence of alternative electric watch technologies. This was quite remarkable for two reasons: Swiss companies dominated the watch industry at that time and they already had a capable research laboratory, Laboratoire Suisse de Recherches Horlog?res (LSRH) in Neuch?tel. But G?rard Bauer, head of the powerful Swiss F?d?ration de l'Industrie Horlog?re (FH), saw clouds on the horizon in the form of electric and electronic watches. The CEH would be a defensive measure, returning expertise and importantly patents to Switzerland. Bauer hoped that this would be enough for their industry to evolve and weather this storm.

This 1953 headline in the New York Times expresses the American feeling about the declining watch industry after World War II
*Image: New York Times, 12/16/1953*

Although mass production of watches began in the United States, these techniques had been adopted in Switzerland in the early 20th century. After the Great Depression, much of the Swiss industry consolidated in various federations and cooperatives focused on horizontal integration. Throughout World War II, Swiss companies continued producing movement components and complete watches as other leading countries (the United States, France, England, Germany, Japan, and Russia) focused on war material. When the war was over, the Swiss were able to take over much of the world market, forcing most other manufacturers out of business.

Switzerland is a small country with limited resources and restricted labor, and the industry was still quite dispersed among small firms. But the Americans, French, Germans, and British could not rebuild and develop quickly enough to challenge Swiss watches, from cheap Roskopf movements to high-end automatic and luxury models. The United States spent the first post-war decade enacting tariffs and quotas to restrict imports, but the watch industry did not return. By 1960, only low-cost Timex and powerful Bulova were still producing watches in volume.

(...)

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July 17, 2020

A review of the first half of 2020 (2nd part)

EXHIBITIONS, BRANDS, DIGITAL: SWISS WATCHMAKING ON THE MOVE IN THE FACE OF THE PANDEMIC

In a few months, the crisis has precipitated events that had been in gestation for several years. Among them: the first virtual edition of Watches & Wonders; an ambitious new gathering under preparation for April 2021 in Geneva; or the acceleration of the market domination by major independent brands. Here's the second part of our selection of articles, in the form of a review of the Swiss watch industry in the first half of the year.

BENNAHMIAS: "MANY CHANGES ARE COMING OUR WAY"

We spoke with Fran?ois-Henry Bennahmias, the CEO of Audemars Piguet, about the impact of the pandemic on the watch industry. While it is still too early to draw definitive conclusions, we can nevertheless already outline a few lessons from this sudden halt in activity - overactivity? - of our world and, consequently, of its watchmaking sector (interview from our May issue).

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KERN: "A DOZEN GLOBAL BRANDS, NO MORE"

Surviving and thriving in our globalised, digital age means being one of those happy few brands that reach "godlike status", as Georges Kern puts it. The CEO and co-shareholder of Breitling is outspoken about the obsolescence of watch fairs, reducing the "noise" in Breitling's aesthetics, and his vision of the new luxury. He also tells us about an in-house automatic movement, and the big launch of the year. We met him in Grenchen (interview from our March issue).

READ THE INTERVIEW

PATEK PHILIPPE: A FEW LESSONS ON RESILIENCE

Resilience. Scientifically speaking, resilience is a value used in physics to represent the resistance of a metal to shocks and breaking. It's a pretty apt comparison when we're talking about watchmaking. More broadly, we also use the word "resilience" to mean "ability to recover quickly from difficulties." This is is a quality Patek Philippe has demonstrated many times throughout its long history, and no doubt will have reason to call upon again very soon (article from our May issue).

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WATCHES & WONDERS: A DIGITAL FIRST

To face the new reality, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has accelerated the digitalisation of its "Watches & Wonders" concept and launched its new platform on 25 April. It brings together the 30 watch brands that should have exhibited and offers the possibility of discovering their new products, but also more widely the world of watchmaking. Europa Star has devoted a special report to this digital first.

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2021: THE WATCH SHOW THAT SHOULD INSPIRE THE FUTURE GENEVA SHOW

The project of a new world watch show in Geneva next April has been launched. Behind-the-scenes discussions are taking place to decide on its structure. Initiatives will also surely flourish for those brands that will not be part of the official event. In the meantime, let's take a look back at some images, taken from our archives, from what was the last event to bring together the whole of the watchmaking world in Geneva: the Salon Montres et Bijoux!

READ THE ARTICLE

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April 22, 2020

A NEW PAGE WAITING TO BE WRITTEN

A page has been turned with the definitive break between Baselworld and its most loyal exhibitors. The regrouping around a single event in Geneva is the epilogue of a historic rivalry between the two cities. Under the impact of the pandemic crisis, this new kind of unity marks a reversal of the trend that saw watchmakers increasingly going it alone. In the interests of the industry, it is time to create a united global watchmaking community.

READ HERE

THE WATCH SHOW THAT SHOULD INSPIRE THE FUTURE GENEVA SHOW

The project of a new world watch show in Geneva next April has been launched. Behind-the-scenes discussions are taking place to decide on its structure. Initiatives will also surely flourish for those brands that will not be part of the official event. In the meantime, let's take a look back at some images, taken from our archives, from what was the last event to bring together the whole of the watchmaking world in Geneva: the Salon Montres et Bijoux!

READ HERE

THE HEARTBREAKING FATE OF THE BASEL FAIR

As an exhibitor for more than 80 years, like so many members of the global watchmaking community, we can only express deep sadness at the heartbreaking fate of Baselworld. So many memories and emotions: part of the collective memory of watchmaking is about to disappear, as a result of the relationship between the exhibition and its exhibitors turning sour. Once again, the pandemic has acted as an accelerator of History.

READ HERE

BASELWORLD: EXTENSIVE COLLATERAL DAMAGE

We knew that watch fairs were in crisis, and would have to reinvent themselves. In fact, Europa Star devoted a special feature to the subject in its pre-coronavirus issue. But the pandemic acted as an accelerator, bringing down what was patiently being rebuilt. Beyond the probably fatal blow to Baselworld's ambitions to win back hearts and minds, the departure of the main exhibitors has resulted in extensive collateral damage, and created many more victims.

READ HERE

WATCHES & WONDERS: THE FIRST GLOBAL DIGITAL WATCH SHOW EVER

To face the new reality, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie has accelerated the digitalisation of its Watches & Wonders concept and is launching its new platform on 25 April. The new website brings together the 30 watch brands that should have exhibited in Geneva and offers the possibility of discovering their new products, but also more widely the world of watchmaking. Europa Star has been a media partner of the event since its launch and is devoting a special report to this first global digital watch exhibition ever.

READ HERE

WATCHMAKING'S "PRE-NETFLIX" MOMENT

The pandemic has led to the accelerated digitisation of our daily life. However, the watch industry finds itself still stuck at a stage similar to that of film or music, before the emergence of Netflix and Spotify - a vast digital jungle where counterfeiting and piracy prevail over the few authorised spaces. As inventories pile up and online outlets begin massively discounting, it's high time the digital landscape was properly structured and legitimised. But how is the watch industry to go from Napster to Netflix?

READ HERE

PANDEMIC: HOW IS THE WATCH INDUSTRY HELPING?

Numerous private initiatives from wealthy individuals or global companies are today making up for the failures of states that did not foresee the extent of the crisis. Even more numerous are small daily initiatives with an equally real impact. Within the watch industry, what actions have been taken, both to help combat the pandemic and to maintain the industrial fabric? Paradoxically, the coronavirus is also causing some masks to slip...

READ HERE

1984: WHEN GERALD GENTA CHALLENGED THE WATCHMAKING ESTABLISHMENT

The opening up of luxury watchmaking to contemporary creative horizons may have begun when Gerald Genta made a splash at the "Montres et Bijoux" exhibition in Geneva: in 1984, the designer released its provocative Mickey Mouse and Pink Panther models. Seen as an affront to traditional watchmaking by the show's organisers, they created a real scandal, and the designer left the fair. Today, pop culture and luxury watchmaking are one and the same.

READ NOW

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New Europa Star edition published on March 1st
International print circulation confirmed
Special "Watch Fairs" report

Geneva, February 27, 2020

In response to the climate of uncertainty surrounding the cancellation of several watch events, we are able to confirm that all print editions of our magazine will be circulated internationally as planned. Our new edition will be published next week and shipped to our loyal readers in 170 countries: it will encompass an in-depth report about the very question of the future of watch fairs, in light of the many current challenges.

Through our Shanghai office, we are closely monitoring the situation in China. All our thoughts go to our friends, colleagues, partners and anyone affected by the coronavirus crisis.

We thank you for your continued trust, and we remain more committed than ever to producing the best watch journalism in 2020.

Sincerely yours,
The Europa Star editorial team

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May 25, 2020

DISCOVER SAMPLE PAGES OF OUR NEW ISSUE

This new concept issue, dedicated to the theme of resilience, is an exploration of the impact of the pandemic on the watch industry and how it can respond. How can we make sense of the unique period we are going through? Analyses and perspectives on an era of transformation. The illustrations are inspired by the Japanese principle of Kintsugi, the artisanal skill of turning lead into gold to repair what is broken.

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EUROPA STAR: A CENTURY OF WATCH JOURNALISM

We are entering the anniversary of the decade that saw the birth of the Europa Star publishing house, one century ago. It was during the Roaring Twenties, a period of intense social, cultural and artistic activity, that the company was founded by an audacious entrepreneur whose aim, from the outset, was to bring the global watchmaking community together. Since then, Europa Star has accompanied all the developments in the industry, observing one very special concept along the way: resilience. We are devoting our new special print edition to this theme.

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December 21, 2020

WATCHMAKING NOW ON UNESCO'S WORLD HERITAGE LIST

UNESCO has registered the craftsmanship of mechanical watchmaking and art mechanics on its Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity. The organisation considered this application as outstanding, as it raises awareness of the importance of intangible cultural heritage in a cross-border area.

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WATCHFINDER & CO: WHY E-COMMERCE STILL VALUES PHYSICAL STORES

In the midst of the pandemic, the platform specialising in pre-owned watches has just opened two physical stores, in Paris and Geneva. It is also partnering with Panerai to offer a trade-in programme. Watchfinder CEO Matt Bowling details his strategy and what has changed since the company was bought by Richemont two years ago.

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DISNEY MICKEY MOUSE X KEITH HARING COLLECTION BY SWATCH

The latest Swatch collaboration with Disney & the Keith Haring Studio celebrates the iconic 1980's New York social activist and pop-artist, renowned for his revolutionary and provocative graffiti-esque pictograms, lines and symbols. The result is a Swatch collection featuring Disney's Mickey Mouse reimagined by late Haring's signature aesthetic, vibrant energy and colors.

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WATCH MARKETING DAY GETS A NEW LOOK

Watch Marketing Day will now take place over single half-day, starting in February 2021 with an edition focusing on the theme of young people and watchmaking. A further event will be coupled with the Biennale du Patrimoine Horloger in La Chaux-de-Fonds in November.

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A NEW DEEP BLUE URUSHI DIAL FOR MINASE'S DIVIDO

Minase's latest addition to the Divido collection pays tribute to Japan's finest traditional crafts. Following the success of the blue hand-lackered embossed copper dial of the standard series, Minase is launching a special, artisanal version.

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EUROPA STAR HBM
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January 5, 2021

THE WATCH FILES

RETROSPECTIVE: CONVERSATION PIECES
A SELECTION OF ARTICLES ON GAME-CHANGING TIMEPIECES

BERNHARD LEDERER'S CENTRAL IMPULSE CHRONOMETER

This innovative timpepiece is based on the work of two great horological pioneers of the "natural escapement" (in other words, an escapement that provides a direct impulse at each oscillation, using two escape wheels turning in opposite directions), an exploration begun by Breguet and refined by George Daniels. As Bernhard Lederer says, he set out to "complete" this unfinished work.

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TISSOT: CONNECTION WITHOUT DISRUPTION

It is new CEO Sylvain Dolla's first major project. Tissot's connected watch, the T-Touch Connect Solar, has been eagerly awaited, as the new market created by this type of watch has boomed in the last five years. This project, the result of four years of research, is a collaboration between Tissot, the Swatch Group's production companies and the CSEM, with a view to designing a Swiss digital ecosystem that takes the opposite approach to that of consumer electronics.

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GREUBEL FORSEY''S HAND MADE 1

As its name suggests, this exceptional watch was made almost entirely (95%) by hand. Europa Star took advantage of the occasion to meet Stephen Forsey, who told us of the constant effort by Greubel Forsey to conserve its know-how. A concern which, paradoxically, is aimed at ensuring them a future.

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BULGARI'S OCTO FINISSIMO, BEHIND THE SCENES

To get a better idea of how the interaction between aesthetics and engineering came about in this collection, Europa Star met its masterminds Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and Alfredo De Biase at Bulgari.

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CHANEL J12 X-RAY: ICONIC TRANSPARENCY

People say that, at the age of twenty, you're sure of everything, particularly of yourself! The aphorism is certainly true of the J12 X-Ray, an exceptional anniversary piece launched by Chanel to celebrate the 20th birthday of the iconic J12, born in 2000 and, for that reason, often described as the first watch icon of the 21st century.

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Subscribe to Europa Star to access high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927.

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More information >

CONTACT US
EUROPA STAR HBM
25 route des Acacias, 1227 Geneva
www.europastar.com
contact@europastar.com
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January 8, 2021

We wish a happy and resilient 2021 to our readers around the world

One unique feature of Europa Star is that, for almost 100 years, it has been delivered to individual addresses all around the world.

Some of you have received Europa Star for three generations, others are new readers. Below is a selection of cities from our readership list.

We thank you all for your appreciation and support of our editorial coverage of the watch industry, and wish you a happy and resilient 2021!

READ ALL OUR ISSUES SINCE 1950

Subscribe to Europa Star to access high value-added editorial coverage of the watch industry worldwide. Original angles and new reflections always on the agenda since 1927.

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Discover ads and articles from Europa Star's digital archive. More than 100,000 pages of watchmaking history are available in one click with our Club.

More information >

CONTACT US
EUROPA STAR HBM
25 route des Acacias, 1227 Geneva
www.europastar.com
contact@europastar.com
+41 22 307 78 37

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THE NEW HAUTE HORLOGERIE

DE TOURNEMIRE: A HEART OF STONE

WATCH THE 2019 GPHG LIVE

AND THE WINNERS ARE...

PARTICIPATE IN OUR ANNUAL SURVEY

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REPORT ON UNREST IN HONG KONG

AMERICAN WATCH REPORT

�WE�RE IN TALKS WITH HEALTH INSURANCE COMPANIES�

�TOMORROW WILL BE EVEN MORE POLARISED� English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

�A VERY WORRYING RISK OF A LOSS OF KNOW-HOW�

�WE�RE MAKING THE MOST OF THE VINTAGE TREND�

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MEETING INDIA�S LARGEST LUXURY WATCH RETAILER

SECRET GENTA DESIGNS SOON UNVEILED

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VERSACE INTRODUCES THE GRECA CHRONO INDIGLO

TIME: FROZEN OR BURNED OUT?

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NEW MODELS: TO LAUNCH OR NOT TO LAUNCH?

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XAVIER DIETLIN''S FORMULA FOR FUTURE WATCH SHOWS

DUBAI WATCH WEEK: THE SHOW INSPIRING OTHER SHOWS

INHORGENTA: THE EUROPEAN CHALLENGER

MEETING THE SHANGHAI WATCH GANG

GENEVA WATCH DAYS 2020: HIGHLIGHTS (I)

THE START OF A NEW CHAPTER FOR MOUVEX 1911

EUROPA STAR TO ORGANISE A "PRINT WATCH FAIR" IN A SPECIAL APRIL 2020 EDITION

WE''RE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

PRESENTING: "AUTUMN" BY ALEXANDER SHOROKHOFF

MILUS: INTRODUCING THE SNOW STAR "ICE BLUE"

TIME TO REFLECT ON THE FATE OF THE WATCH INDUSTRY!

1918: HOW THE WATCH INDUSTRY DEALT WITH THE SPANISH FLU

1918: SPANISH FLU

WE'RE ALL IN THIS TOGETHER

THE CLASH OF CONCEPTS AND THE REMAKING OF WATCH FAIRS

TISSOT''S FIRST CONNECTED WATCH

CHANEL J12 X-RAY: ICONIC TRANSPARENCY

NOT ENOUGH MASKS, TOO MANY WATCHES?

AN INTERVIEW WITH GEORGES KERN

THE HAMILTON PULSAR IS BACK

TAG HEUER: THE NEW CONNECTED

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Establishment of the Centre Electronique Horloger (CEH)

�LOGISTICS IS THE �KILLER APP� OF THE CHINESE E-COMMERCE GIANTS�
INTERVIEW WITH DIGITAL LUXURY GROUP, CHINA

MAX B�SSER ON THE FUTURE OF WATCHMAKING
English � Espa�ol

WATCHES IN THE SILICON VALLEY
English � Espa�ol

�TOMORROW WILL BE EVEN MORE POLARISED�
English � Fran�ais � Espa�ol

CHANEL J12 X-RAY:
ICONIC TRANSPARENCY