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Killer whales in the Eastern Atlantic have been exhibiting abnormal behaviour by interacting with a large number of sailing boats off the coast of NW Spain, thought by some scientists to be an after-effect of the Covid-19 lockdown when for many months the sea was silent. With a number of yachts disabled and needing to call out the Coast Guard for emergency assistance, the Spanish Government have now defined a “no-go-zone” for all vessels under 15 metres between Prioriño Grande and Estaca de Bares.

Attempted Boarding on the way to the Med 

Further south in Spain, off Cadiz, a German cruising boat suffered a few traumatic hours being pursued by 2 fast RIBs with balaclava-wearing men on board. An attempted boarding failed due to the rough sea conditions and the arrival of the Spanish Coastguard helicopter just in time. The assailants fled towards Africa.

Already at the statistical peak of hurricane season there have been so many tropical systems spinning around the Atlantic basin this season that for the 2nd time in history the Greek alphabet has had to be dusted off for naming storms – and there are still 2 months to go! 

Talking of Greece, the western Greek islands (Ionian in particular) have endured another Medicane (Mediterranean Hurricane) – the last being in 2018. Images of sunken and mangled yachts, plus quaysides and streets inundated with mud and rocks from the hillsides, are circulating on social media as cruising boats enjoying some late summer sailing in these popular islands are shocked by the intensity of the storm. Another blow for these Islands after suffering an already difficult tourist season.

Cause for concern are the cruising community bottle necks that have been developing in many parts of the world. A large number of transient cruising boats have had to stay put where they wouldn’t normally be out of season. The Caribbean is one such place as only a few Islands offered options for hurricane season (with Trinidad still notably closed), meaning the area as a whole has a much higher concentration of summer cruisers than normal. Listen to a number of key yachting figures in the Caribbean discuss the current situation for cruising boats at this SSCA webinar on Atlantic and Caribbean cruising.

The South Pacific is turning into another bottleneck now that the Australia and New Zealand Governments have definitely refused cyclone refuge for foreign yachts. With the official start of Pacific cyclone season on 1 November, cruising boats in the area now need to start executing plans B and C, but all will likely stay put filling up the parking lot for next season’s inundation. Listen to the cruising experts in the area talk about this cyclone season and what options there are for cruisers at this Pacific SSCA webinar.

Author Kate Laird has sailed with her husband and 2 daughters aboard their yacht SEAL since 2004, from Greenland to Antarctica to Alaska. She has boat-schooled her children throughout their school years. In part 1 of her series for INSIGHTS, Kate concentrates on schooling for ages 4 to 12 and allays some of the fears that first-time boat schooling parents might have. Part 2 will focus on high school age children.

Whilst Noonsite continues to be a free resource, there are some ways you can get more involved with the site:

If you have benefited from the information that the Noonsite team works tirelessly to provide for the cruising community, both before and during the COVID-19 crisis, please consider making a donation to support the site. Your contribution will ensure we can keep delivering updates regularly and help support the running costs of the site.

Quick and simple to set-up, registering on the site means you can contribute comments to all ports, countries and reports, post anchorages on the new mapping feature and take advantage of exclusive offers and discounts. Click on "login" to create a profile.

For more detailed cruising reports and any cruising-related questions, contact the noonsite team directly at noonsite@noonsite.com.

Follow us on Twitter: @NoonsiteEditor 

There is much relief amongst cruising sailors that countries around the world have started to open up over the last 4 weeks; borders are being re-opened, but cautiously, and in respect to yachts coming in from overseas, there remains some uncertainty in many places. Entry, quarantine and testing rules in place for air travelers don’t transfer easily to yacht crews and changes take time to filter down to every border control authority in every port. We are also finding that many regions interpret the rules in their own way so Noonsite’s advice is to sit tight for a couple of weeks once your destination country has re-opened its borders, until the dust has settled and “grey” areas have been ironed out. When you do decide to move, contact your destination port or marina in advance and find out exactly what is required. In many countries the official government rules are interpreted differently by ports and marinas making it particularly important to check ahead before leaving on passage.

We recommend that you keep a close eye on our Covid-19 document which shows at a glance which countries are now open and links to much more detail in the country Biosecurity section. You can also use our new mapping feature to view Covid-19 safe haven ports.

While some Caribbean countries boldly organized controlled openings for yachts for hurricane season in May (including Grenada, Bonaire and Curacao), the tide really began to turn at the start of June as more and more Islands started to open up, including Antigua and the Bahamas (all be it with quarantine and/or testing). 

On June 15th the EU encouraged border restrictions to be lifted and Spain, Portugal, Italy and Croatia obliged. In the eastern Med Turkey and Cyprus also opened their borders, to the joy of many Red Sea yachts wanting to leave Egypt and find safe haven for a well-deserved rest. Restrictions are easing in the Azores as well and access to shore is permitted following a negative test. At last mid-Atlantic passage makers can explore this wonderful archipelago and properly meet the friendly locals who have gone so far out of their way to help sailors, in particular during this time of crisis.

In the Pacific, cruising yachts have been laid-up in French Polynesia for months with no where open ahead of them to sail to. All that is beginning to change, however, with Fiji being the first to re-open their maritime borders to foreign flagged vessels on 21 June,(limited initially to superyachts). It seems French Polynesia will be following suit from 15 July when quarantine measures will be lifted and French Polynesia’s borders will re-open to international tourism from all countries.

Feature Destination: Madagascar

Circumnavigators and regular contributors to Noonsite during their world voyage, SY Starry Horizons, have shared a very useful report for those transiting the Indian Ocean and sailing over the top of Madagascar (Cap de Ambre) from the Seychelles. This is an excellent overview of arriving in Madagascar and cruising down the NW coast, with as always great images of each anchorage and descriptions of their time in this diverse country by co-skipper Amy.

After 20 years on the web, this is what the team at Noonsite have been waiting for and we are very excited to now have a map by which you can navigate the site and find the information you are looking for. Read our quick guide to help you find your way around the map and what it has to offer, plus how to post your favorite or useful anchorages. Please take a few minutes to post just one anchorage to start with, perhaps your favorite place in your home waters, or one that sticks in your mind from your last voyage. And let us know what you think – we value your feedback!

Sam and Adrian Wood, both qualified skippers, have subsidized their last decade of cruising with delivery and charter work. After leaving the UK in 2011 for an Atlantic Circuit, the couple have still not returned home and are currently based in the Caribbean. This is their story...

Whilst Noonsite continues to be a free resource, there are some ways you can get more involved with the site:

If you have benefited from the information that the Noonsite team works tirelessly to provide for the cruising community, both before and during the COVID-19 crisis, please consider making a donation to support the site. Your contribution will ensure we can keep delivering updates regularly and help support the running costs of the site.

Quick and simple to set-up, registering on the site means you can contribute comments to all ports, countries and reports, post anchorages on the new mapping feature and take advantage of exclusive offers and discounts. Click on "login" to create a profile.

For more detailed cruising reports and any cruising-related questions, contact the noonsite team directly at noonsite@noonsite.com.

Follow us on Twitter: @NoonsiteEditor 

November 2020 will be known as the month of the second wave, when most of Europe went into lockdown again. It hasn’t stopped warmer waters beckoning however, and while the number of cruising yachts barrelling towards the Caribbean are greatly diminished this year, major rallies such as the Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC), Salty Dawg Rally and Panama Posse are all operating with a good injection of new boats into the Caribbean this winter.

Aruba opened its borders to a corridor list of countries this month, Costa Rica eliminated the need for testing and the British Virgin Islands are hopefully opening their sea borders in early December. 

Cruise the Caribbean with confidence this season and find out what to expect with our summary of yachting protocols in Caribbean countries.

If you are still in the Mediterranean planning to head across the Atlantic over the new few months, bear in mind that Spain has changed its rules very recently and now requires anyone arriving by sea to have a Covid test before disembarking – and the Canary Islands will likely follow suit.

Christine Myers of SY Delos recounts her last few “insane” months in South America when a short trip inland to Peru from Ecuador coincided with lockdown and left them unable to return to their boat (their home) which faced a hefty fine for overstaying.

At last South Africa has opened a window of time (until 15 December) in which Indian Ocean yachts can clear into the country.

Thailand are open, but the 2-week quarantine and string of expensive tests are limiting.

The Galapagos are keen to re-activate the economy writing welcoming letters to sailors, but unfortunately little has changed in the Pacific islands with only Fiji and French Polynesia permitting yachts to enter at this time (via an advance application system). Active cases are increasing in French Polynesia and a curfew is in place to try to curb the spread of the virus.

While Australia announced a new exemption to yachts needing safe haven this month, New Zealand is still closed as are the majority of the Pacific islands. Yachts thinking about crossing the Pacific in 2021 should do so with caution.

Cruising News from Around the World:

Whilst Noonsite continues to be a free resource, there are some ways you can get more involved with the site:

If you have benefited from the information that the Noonsite team works tirelessly to provide for the cruising community, both before and during the COVID-19 crisis, please consider making a donation to support the site. Your contribution will ensure we can keep delivering updates regularly and help support the running costs of the site.

Quick and simple to set-up, registering on the site means you can contribute comments to all ports, countries and reports, post anchorages on the new mapping feature and take advantage of exclusive offers and discounts. Click on "login" to create a profile.

For more detailed cruising reports and any cruising-related questions, contact the noonsite team directly at noonsite@noonsite.com.

Follow us on Twitter: @NoonsiteEditor 

With no clear solution yet for cyclone refuge in Australia or New Zealand and the Pacific cyclone season due to start in just 8 weeks, cruisers in the region are having to now seriously start working on alternative plans. While North instead of South is not an option this year due to Covid-19 border closures, staying put is worth considering albeit with calculated risks.

In other parts of the world, cruising in the last 6 months has been just as stressful for many, in particular Caribbean cruisers who still don''t have safe haven for hurricane season which is well and truly underway. The SSCA ran a very useful webinar this week focused on what is going on in Trinidad right now and all that Trinidad and Tobago have to offer for cruisers, see the recording here.

Elsewhere many cruisers are finding that returning to the "new normal" is liberating, with a chance to explore home waters that are now less crowded. Conversely there are many seeing more boaters on the water locally as people discover that boating is an outdoor activity that ticks all the social distancing boxes and doesn''t require wearing a mask!

Coronavirus is also making many cruisers start seriously thinking about living off grid for self-sufficiency, resilience, or ecological reasons. Read more in our feature below.

Stay safe and happy sailing everyone!

Coronavirus and climate change are making many cruisers start seriously thinking about living off grid for self-sufficiency, resilience, or ecological reasons. While sailors in general are a pretty self-sufficient bunch, to live off grid properly on board takes some adjustments in both kit and attitude. Rekka Bell who writes for INSIGHTS knows a thing or two about living off-grid having spent the last 5 years circumnavigating the Pacific in a small sailboat while operating a design, writing and programming studio on board. Her article this month - Floating Studio – Working On Board Efficiently - is a must-read for anyone considering combining working with cruising with some valuable advice and suggestions including how to improve power management and cope when there''s limited or no internet.

We have a double-bill from INSIGHTS this month as Duncan Wells continues his Man Overboard Series. Following part 1, featured in March, which covered MOB when sailing to windward, part 2 covers MOB when sailing downwind.

If you haven’t yet discovered Noonsite’s new mapping feature then read our quick guide to get yourself acquainted and start using it to find information on your next port and post your latest anchorage.

Do you know someone who could take this or another miniboat aboard their vessel and launch it into the Atlantic for it to follow the currents back to the US? Please contact Cassie Symiest at cassie@educationalpassages.org or Michael McGlynn at ms.mcglynn@hotmail.com and visit https://educationalpassages.org/boats/hvescruiser/ for more information and to read the full story.

Whilst Noonsite continues to be a free resource, there are some ways you can get more involved with the site:

If you have benefited from the information that the Noonsite team works tirelessly to provide for the cruising community, both before and during the COVID-19 crisis, please consider making a donation to support the site. Your contribution will ensure we can keep delivering updates regularly and help support the running costs of the site.

Quick and simple to set-up, registering on the site means you can contribute comments to all ports, countries and reports, post anchorages on the new mapping feature and take advantage of exclusive offers and discounts. Click on "login" to create a profile.

For more detailed cruising reports and any cruising-related questions, contact the noonsite team directly at noonsite@noonsite.com.

Follow us on Twitter: @NoonsiteEditor 

Having survived the storm of border closures in March/April, we are now seeing the majority of countries starting to open up again: some cautiously with tight restrictions in place including prior permission and a negative Covid test, others flinging open the doors with nothing more than a health questionnaire to complete prior to arrival.

Right now, any skippers thinking of cruising between countries should be aware that rules and regulations are in a constant state of flux during the pandemic and borders are tentatively open. As cases of Covid-19 spike once again we are seeing regional border closures and concern over a second wave in many parts of the world. Travel bubbles mean that one day your country of departure may be low-risk, and the next high-risk, so freely cruising (around the Mediterranean for example) is still a complicated process.

Be prepared that conditions may have changed by the time you arrive at your next destination and have all possible paperwork in order, including a comprehensive crew list and cruising history for the boat at least for the last 6 months, plus a well-kept log of all crew on board and their health status (including daily temperature checks). Bear in mind that quarantine may be required on arrival so have plenty of food, water and fuel on board and you may only be granted entry if all crew have negative Covid test results obtained 48 hours prior to departure from your last port. Have enough cash on board to cover tests on arrival should this be needed. Consider employing an agent (which in many countries is now obligatory) to ease entry and prepare all the correct paperwork plus keep you informed should the situation and/or requirements change while on passage. Keep abreast of all the latest requirements through our country biosecurity sections.

For Pacific cruisers needing to escape before cyclone season, relief came this month when Fiji cautiously opened to foreign yachts with a carefully planned framework. Fiji’s new Blue Lane procedure has been carefully crafted to enable foreign yachts to get into the country and keep Fijians safe from virus transmission. It includes a pre-application, appointing an agent, obtaining a Covid test prior to departure and a 14-day quarantine on arrival which does take passage time into account. Cynthia Rasch of Port Denarau Marina (the only port of entry for Fiji at this time) reports that "more than 100 boats have already applied to enter Fiji through the new Blue Lane procedure."

Australia too understands the problem Pacific cruisers are facing and after representation by the Ocean Cruising Club, the Australian Government have agreed that should yachts meet one of the exceptions for entry following an application process, they will be permitted to come and quarantine in Queensland.

New Zealand remains resolutely closed unless you are willing to part with a large chunk of the cruising kitty (must exceed $50,000) to get some serious work done on your boat. Vanuatu is closed until at least 2021 and New Caledonia until at least November, although transit stops are permitted in Noumea.

With so many cruising yachts stacking up in French Polynesia waters over the last 6 months and no place to go, the Islands’ anchorages have become very crowded, particularly in Tahiti, and resentment has been building among the local population against the yachties. A new Anchoring Restriction Decree has been passed in Tahiti and the Council of Ministers have announced that the maximum length of admission for exemption from duties and taxes for foreign pleasure vessels has been reduced from 36 months to 24 months. The Council said the action has been brought about after considering the harmful effects of “the permanent presence of some of these vessels on different lagoons."

Swiss Cruiser Laure Olena‎ wrote an article about the origin of the tensions in Tahiti between locals and cruisers on her boat blog. It is from her family’s viewpoint after spending 14 months in Polynesia, and will help those that are new to cruising in French Polynesia to understand the root of the problems. The Association of Sailboats in Polynesia (AVP) also have many good articles on their website about the current situation.

If you haven’t yet discovered Noonsite’s new mapping feature then read our quick guide to get yourself acquainted and start using it to find information on your next port and post your latest anchorage.

Whilst Noonsite continues to be a free resource, there are some ways you can get more involved with the site:

If you have benefited from the information that the Noonsite team works tirelessly to provide for the cruising community, both before and during the COVID-19 crisis, please consider making a donation to support the site. Your contribution will ensure we can keep delivering updates regularly and help support the running costs of the site.

Quick and simple to set-up, registering on the site means you can contribute comments to all ports, countries and reports, post anchorages on the new mapping feature and take advantage of exclusive offers and discounts. Click on "login" to create a profile.

For more detailed cruising reports and any cruising-related questions, contact the noonsite team directly at noonsite@noonsite.com.

Follow us on Twitter: @NoonsiteEditor 

There is much relief amongst cruising sailors that countries around the world have started to open up over the last 4 weeks; borders are being re-opened, but cautiously, and in respect to yachts coming in from overseas, there remains some uncertainty in many places. Entry, quarantine and testing rules in place for air travelers don’t transfer easily to yacht crews and changes take time to filter down to every border control authority in every port. We are also finding that many regions interpret the rules in their own way so Noonsite’s advice is to sit tight for a couple of weeks once your destination country has re-opened its borders, until the dust has settled and “grey” areas have been ironed out. When you do decide to move, contact your destination port or marina in advance and find out exactly what is required. In many countries the official government rules are interpreted differently by ports and marinas making it particularly important to check ahead before leaving on passage.

We recommend that you keep a close eye on our Covid-19 document which shows at a glance which countries are now open and links to much more detail in the country Biosecurity section. You can also use our new mapping feature to view Covid-19 safe haven ports.

While some Caribbean countries boldly organized controlled openings for yachts for hurricane season in May (including Grenada, Bonaire and Curacao), the tide really began to turn at the start of June as more and more Islands started to open up, including Antigua and the Bahamas (all be it with quarantine and/or testing). 

On June 15th the EU encouraged border restrictions to be lifted and Spain, Portugal, Italy and Croatia obliged. In the eastern Med Turkey and Cyprus also opened their borders, to the joy of many Red Sea yachts wanting to leave Egypt and find safe haven for a well-deserved rest. Restrictions are easing in the Azores as well and access to shore is permitted following a negative test. At last mid-Atlantic passage makers can explore this wonderful archipelago and properly meet the friendly locals who have gone so far out of their way to help sailors, in particular during this time of crisis.

In the Pacific, cruising yachts have been laid-up in French Polynesia for months with no where open ahead of them to sail to. All that is beginning to change, however, with Fiji being the first to re-open their maritime borders to foreign flagged vessels on 21 June,(limited initially to superyachts). It seems French Polynesia will be following suit from 15 July when quarantine measures will be lifted and French Polynesia’s borders will re-open to international tourism from all countries.

Feature Destination: Madagascar

Circumnavigators and regular contributors to Noonsite during their world voyage, SY Starry Horizons, have shared a very useful report for those transiting the Indian Ocean and sailing over the top of Madagascar (Cap de Ambre) from the Seychelles. This is an excellent overview of arriving in Madagascar and cruising down the NW coast, with as always great images of each anchorage and descriptions of their time in this diverse country by co-skipper Amy.

After 20 years on the web, this is what the team at Noonsite have been waiting for and we are very excited to now have a map by which you can navigate the site and find the information you are looking for. Read our quick guide to help you find your way around the map and what it has to offer, plus how to post your favorite or useful anchorages. Please take a few minutes to post just one anchorage to start with, perhaps your favorite place in your home waters, or one that sticks in your mind from your last voyage. And let us know what you think – we value your feedback!

Sam and Adrian Wood, both qualified skippers, have subsidized their last decade of cruising with delivery and charter work. After leaving the UK in 2011 for an Atlantic Circuit, the couple have still not returned home and are currently based in the Caribbean. This is their story...

Whilst Noonsite continues to be a free resource, there are some ways you can get more involved with the site:

If you have benefited from the information that the Noonsite team works tirelessly to provide for the cruising community, both before and during the COVID-19 crisis, please consider making a donation to support the site. Your contribution will ensure we can keep delivering updates regularly and help support the running costs of the site.

Quick and simple to set-up, registering on the site means you can contribute comments to all ports, countries and reports, post anchorages on the new mapping feature and take advantage of exclusive offers and discounts. Click on "login" to create a profile.

For more detailed cruising reports and any cruising-related questions, contact the noonsite team directly at noonsite@noonsite.com.

Follow us on Twitter: @NoonsiteEditor 

It’s been a busy month with important border openings after 6 months of closure and further streamlining of Covid protocols for visiting yachts in many countries, principally a tightening up of testing and quarantine requirements. As long-distance sailors around the world are preparing to head off on passage during this time of uncertainty, it is vital to monitor all reliable sources of rules and regulations for countries en-route, in particular Noonsite and Government websites. 

Rules are constantly changing from one day to the next: for example Ecuador opened its ports on October 5th, only to close them again on October 12th due to an outbreak in the port of Manta following the return of the fishing fleet; and St. Vincent and the Grenadines has just announced interim increased protocols during the election period as many islanders return home to vote. 

Now, more than ever, it is vital to have a back-up plan (or two) if intending to do any extensive cruising over the next 6 months, plus no strict agenda and a good dose of patience and cash (to cover regular testing for all crew, quarantine mooring fees and clearance fees). See more advice on preparing for a long passage during COVID here.

South Africa is a very good example with a loud and clear message on 1 October that borders were open. Many boats left Indian Ocean shores to head straight to SA expecting a clear path to enter, but in actual fact the port authority, immigration and customs all had different ideas as to how the new protocols translated to small yachts. On arrival, yachts have piled up in Richards Bay clearing with Health and Customs but unable to get into the country with Immigration. Some even booked safaris in advance expecting a straightforward entry procedure and have been left greatly disappointed. As the wheels of Government turn slowly, getting a new directive issued is proving to be a slow process with intense behind the scenes work from the SA land-based cruising community. For now, getting into a safe harbour in a South African Port is possible, but only to reprovision, refuel and wait for weather.

In Antigua discrepancies continue between what the government states and what is actually happening on the ground. Fortunately Bob Potter of eSeaClear has realised how confusing and frustrating this is for visiting yachtsmen and is publishing what’s really happening at https://eSeaCOVID.com

Cuba announced with just a few days warning that they would be opening marinas to international arrivals from 19 October. Several days later details started to trickle out that in fact the opening was limited to just three marinas/ports of entry – one in the north (not Hemingway) and two in the south. The others will open as and when their regions move into the new normal phase. Marina Hemingway in Havana is open for domestic arrivals and for international departure, however not yet for international arrivals. 

Panama has finally removed quarantine in place of a PCR test (either 48 hrs prior to arrival or carried out on arrival in Panama at your own cost). The San Blas Islands are expected to re-open the first or second week of November. 

The Bahamas will also be removing quarantine like Panama from 1 November.

Movement is starting in SE Asia too. While borders are still closed to incoming yachts, cruisers with their boats in Malaysia have been able to use the new immigration entry procedures to return and get back to their boats (if classed as their homes). Thailand is working on allowing yachts back into the country – the decision now waiting on cabinet approval.

Indonesia announced on the 19 October that they too were now open to foreign yachts. There are several hoops to jump through in order to enter and a guarantor/agent is required to deal with the visa and clearance process, however all doable and a welcome destination for many cruisers locked down elsewhere in SE Asia/Indian Ocean territory. 

Sail South Pacific

TransAtlantic

Maybe the Best Home School Is … on a Boat?